Introduction
My name is Tony Leigh, my wonderful wife is Susan Tuttle. We enjoy numerous interests and live in London, a city we love. We are a fit couple of fifty somethings who love to travel.
This is blog is a travelogue of those travels.
Other Stuff
When looking for a place to stay, eat or drink we, like many of you, peep at Trip Advisor. Human beings have an annoying tendency of differing opinions to other human beings. This makes Trip Advisor a tad hit and miss. Trip Advisor’s top rated eatery in one particular town we visited was McDonalds. Enough said. We now only use it as a reference point utilising local guides local, recommendations and everything inbetween.
A place to stay, eat or drink will only get a shout out if they’re particularly good or particularly bad. The vast majority of places stayed at, eaten in or drank from are instantly forgettable. It’s often the people we meet that make a place memorable.
The Trip
We landed in Venice on the 23 December and left Dubrovnik, arriving inconveniently late into Heathrow, on the 13 January. Which also happens to be my birthday. Only the flights, a hotel in Venice and car hire had been booked in advance. We’d researched where we wanted to go, how to get there and how long to stay but little else.
Italy – Venice and Trieste
Courtesy of Ryan Air (reasonably efficient if not favourite airline) we landed in the middle of nowhere. Also known as Treviso Airport. For €12 each a coach (easily booked in the airport) takes the weary traveller to the outskirts of Venice. A half hour walk (assuming no directional mishaps) would have taken us to our hotel. We decided on a water taxi. This is an expensive way to enter Venice but somehow feels the right way to enter Venice.
We spent the afternoon wandering around the tourist haunts – St Mark’s Square, the waterfront and the remarkably tourist populated Rialto Bridge. You need to do this if your first visit to the city. All truly are magnificent.
As both have been to Venice a couple of times before (though never together) the following day, our only full day in the city, we explored outside the usual excursion tourist habitat.
We started at the wonderful Peggy Guggenheim gallery which has a world class collection of modern art. Highly recommended. We then took a circular route back to our hotel which, in reality was only a short stroll from St Mark’s Square. Though the distances are actually quite small we explored for around three hours. To be honest, this was our favourite part of a very short stay in Venice. Though, to be clear, no part of Venice is tourist free.
Venice is one huge tourist trap. With reason. It has the double whammy of beautiful buildings artfully interwoven with water in the form of canals. Many of the shops sell tourist trap crap in the various forms – food, drink and souvenirs. However there are a few outposts of quality particularly around glass and clothing. And there’s D’Angelos, a small take out place selling great value, delectable pizza.
Our hotel was also on a canal. When hotels boast of being on a canal it’s like saying ‘the hotel is on a road’. Everything in Venice is located on a canal, it’s just a matter of which one. Saying that, our hotel was most agreeable reminding us both of hotels we had stayed in when on European family holidays. Even the soap smelled the same.
The following morning, after half an hour walk (we beat Google’s estimate by four minutes) from St Marks Square is the Mussolini era train station. And a handsome beast it is too. We wandered into the ticket office, bought a ticket to Trieste and an hour and 45 minutes later we were coming into Trieste station. Total cost was €28. Marvellous.
Venice is not a green city in any sense. Green spaces are rare with canals doubling up as the main sewage system. This does lead to a slight whiff, sometimes more than a slight whiff of residents’ toilet habits. However, if you haven’t been do Venice than you should. Before it sinks. It’s a magnificent city.
Trieste. First impressions were it’s OK. Then we had a walk about. They’re the remains of a small Roman Theatre, an elegant city centre and a small but well proportioned older quarter. The main square, boarded on three sides by grand 19th and early 20th century buildings and the other by the Adriatic Sea, is particularly splendid. Trieste main square, glammed up for the Christmas season, was one of the prettiest either had seen at this time of year.
The sea front offers an interesting (and cold in December) stroll past old and new. Though much is open to the Adriatic, one of the newer delights was Eately consisting of a collection of gourmet food, drink and crafts in a handsome modern building. Annoyingly, to us and locals alike, this temple to all things tasty was closed even though a notice on the main door proclaimed otherwise.
A steep climb via steps or a marginally less strenuous climb via a small park area takes you to a thoroughly impressive medieval castle and slightly later church. The castle, which has later additions, wasn’t open on a chilly December afternoon. However it’s an impressive sight and offers majestic views back across the city. It was also a great way to warm up on a chilly December afternoon. Or sweat profusely on a hot August afternoon.
We chose the steeper step route (obviously) and heavily breathed our way past an area that may have been used by methadone users. There were also a couple of needles for those presumably still on the hard stuff. A reminder that Trieste is a port town that like many others has suffered its fair share of hard times.
I’m a huge craft beer fan and, with the help of friends, have even tried my hand at home brewing – with mixed and interesting results. My IPA is an acquired taste and has a tendency to explode from the bottle. If like me, you prefer craft beers to dreadfully awful generic lager may I strongly suggest a visit to Hops Beerstro. The second ‘o’ has one of those continental marks above it. Though that may be just a mark on the beer mat I borrowed. Your inner beer snob will have a wonderful time. Mine did.
Food choices in Trieste consisted mainly of pizza, pasta and tiramisu. Most of the restaurants didn’t open to 7pm. We were starving. It was only about 5.30. We found Navigator (pun just realised), a restaurant desperately vying for a USP in a city of generic Italian restaurants. Thankfully the seafood pizza (me) and seafood pasta (Sus) were considerably better than their rather sad branding.
Slovenia – Ljubljana and Lake Bled
The next morning was another train leading to another city. Ljubljana is the capital and largest city in Slovenia. Not that you would necessarily know. The old town architecture swings from Art Nouveau to Baroque and anything inbetween. It works rather well. There’s also a huge castle above the town (where else) which, from a distance looks spectacular. It dates back to the 11th century though much of what you see today dates from the almost modern 15th century. We walked up (15 to 20 minutes) though there is a funicular for wimps. And old people. And people in wheelchairs. And old people in wheelchairs.
Close up the castle still looks fairytale though on the inside (there is a reasonable entrance fee) it looked and felt a little sanitised. There’s an excellent restaurant (allegedly), an interesting museum tracing Croatia’s history and the obligatory cafe. We popped up the tower for the views and then popped back down, to what we felt, was the far more interesting town.
Two days in Ljubljana meant a visit to a brewery and another to a wine bar. Back in Blighty a visit to a brewery might mean cold premises, interesting toilet choices and sparse seating. However, the beer nearly always makes up for those minor inconveniences. Union Pivnica (which has another outpost in Makarska where we’re currently staying) had beautifully climate controlled premises, great loos and ample seating. And they serve proper food. Unfortunately their beer, certainly the three we tried, was rather bland. The owners had presumably visited a Brewdog but had left without tasting the beer.
Ljubljana’s reputation was saved by Slovenska Hisa, a splendid restaurant that served hearty, local food and superb beer – try the bizarrely and mildly worryingly named Human Fish and Reservoir Dogs breweries. Both sound a little like death metal bands but please be assured – both breweries produce cracking beer.
And a very special mention must go to Wine Bar Suklje (more continental wackiness above the ‘s’). We walked in about 4pm when it was very quiet. We had a flight of 4 wines, the first a little underwhelming, the following three excellent. A bargain at €8 per flight.
A local, who was already a little tipsy (pissed) asked if he could vape as it was markedly chilly outside. We had no problem (though neither smoke) and thought nothing of it. As we were finishing the barman came over and said the now considerably more tipsy (really pissed) local would like to treat us to a sample on one of the best wines Slovenia produced.
No thinking time necessary.
And he was right. The wine was superb. Our tipsy chum next offered to buy us a sample of the wine made by the owner of the bar. The owner and winemaker came over himself, partly to stop our tipsy chum further verbally molesting his customers (us). He was a youngish and affable chap whose family owned a vineyard on the coast. His wine was agreeable, an easy drinker and French in style.
A 40 minute bus ride from Ljubljana , the following morning, took us to the Hammer House of Horror Lake Bled. Discovering the whereabouts of bus stop taking one to Lake Bled was not as simple as one might think. After an aborted attempt the previous day only Sus’s uncanny sense of direction got us there. I would still be looking. Take advice.
In itself the bus ride is worth the very reasonable fare. You pass through attractive scenery and villages before reaching the disappointedly blood free lake. Lake Bled has a Bled Island (surely a statue of Dracula?) which has a 17th century church plonked on it. Might explain the utter lack of anything Draculaish. There’s a mediaeval castle clinging to a rocky cliff and a backdrop of the Julian Mountains. It truly is spectacular. An hour and a half leisurely wander takes you around the 6 kilometres of the lake. Worth every step.
Sadly, this was our last evening in Ljubljana a city we both very much liked. It’s very much a proper city which just happens to have a pretty old centre. It’s friendly, walkable and rather fun. Go.
Croatia – Zagreb, Funtana, Porec and Rovinj
A two hour, 15 minutes train journey from Ljubljana trundles one nicely to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. A new country awaited.
Zagreb reminded us of Linz in Austria. A city yet to be fully discovered and perhaps appreciated by the masses. The capital is distinguished by 18th and 19th century Austro-Hungarian architecture. There’s the picture postcard favourite 13th century St Mark’s church (with the 18th century tiled roof) and the rebuilt twin towered Cathedral of Zagreb. A pleasing amble can be had exploring the area around St Mark’s.
There’s a Museum of Broken Relationships (probably not a first date destination) and Tkalciceva, a street aimed squarely at the tourist masses with its almost indistinguishable bars and restaurants. We did have a rather good coffee there though.
However, the main square is impressive and, when we were there, they had the best ice ring either have seen. There was a food and drink market and an excellent live band playing in a park a short stroll away.
Reasonably close to the large daily market there’s Craft Room – yep, you guessed it, a craft beer pub. The beer and chips were excellent.
To be honest, a day is enough in Zagreb. Compared to Ljubljana it felt strangely parochial and perhaps a little scruffy.
The following day we headed to Istria and, three hours later, we arrived in the wonderfully named Funtana. There’s a Funtana Dinopark which sounds like an episode from the wonderful Phoenix Nights. It was closed.
So was Funtana. This was New Year’s Day. However, Funtana is a pretty village with wonderful views across the Adriatic. There’s a decent size harbour, restaurants and bars all surrounded by green hills. We stayed at a friend’s holiday home which was lovely. A little like Funtana.
Our second afternoon in Funtana was spent in the beautiful Porec, a 45 minute drive away. Porec is lucky enough to have a UNESCO listed, 6th century basilica, the odd Roman bit, medieval towers and a lovely old town dating back to at least the 18th century. If that’s not enough Porec happens to be located on the Istrian peninsula adding watery loveliness.
The following morning our baby VW (the ironically named UP! even though hills weren’t the little guy’s forte) took us to Rovinj another of those pretty Istrian towns. It’s similar to Porec and worth a couple of hours if you happen to have them spare. If you only have time for one choose Porec.
Croatia – Opatija, Zadar and Nin
From Rovinj we blasted down to Opatija – or a sedate meander in our mildly underpowered UP! The exclamation mark is VW’s, not mine. I dislike exclamation marks. To be fair, we were to spend 1500 kilometres in the UP! and all were stress free. The little guy was somewhat underpowered on motorways but more than capable everywhere else. Third gear very much became our friend.
Opatija surprised us. Architecturally Opatija was utterly different from Venice, Ljubljana and most of the other coastal towns. It has a long bay much of which is fronted by grand late 19th century and 20th century buildings. It feels very upmarket with elderly, well dressed (sometimes overly dressed) ladies with small dogs frequenting upmarket shops and boutiques. We were only there overnight but had a morning walk along the main street. Though one night is enough we both thoroughly enjoyed Opatija. Our hotel was also excellent with a breakfast my digestive system is still processing.
A couple of hours down the almost empty A8 we arrived in Zadar. Because we were travelling out of season and Croatia has a total population of a little more than 4 million people the roads (particularly the motorways) were refreshingly clear of cars. We also contributed about £50 to the road toll holiday fund. Probably a contributory factor. My understanding is, in peak holiday season, the non-toll roads become a car locked.
I will mention our accommodation (Zederia Accomodation). It was an apartment – basically a large bedroom and bathroom. This was better than most and we were shown around and given Zadar tips from the lovely Inga. Apartments are common in Croatia and Montenegro (and often come with as small kitchen) often dominating accommodation in historic areas of towns and cities such as Kotor and Dubrovnik. I can’t help feeling this rips the soul from these historic centres and we – tourists – are the reason.
Unfortunately for Zadar, Croatia picked the losing side in World War Two, caught the wandering eye of the RAF who then made a bit of a mess. Thankfully enough of Zadar’s old bits survived and the town boasts Roman ruins, medieval churches, cosmopolitan cafes and quality museums all set on a small peninsula. The Roman ruins were discovered, somewhat ironically, because of the bombings. Silver lining and all that.
There’s a promenade along the Adriatic with marvellous views across the water to the settlements on the other side of the peninsula. You may hear eerie reverberations – this, thankfully is not the locals, but a sea organ, the first of its kind anywhere in the world.
Nin is about 15 kilometres from Zadar and recommended by one and all. It’s the oldest royal town in Croatia with a ruined Roman temple, the 9th Century St Church of the Holy Cross (the smallest cathedral in the world – allegedly) and restored cobbled streets. Queen’s beach, situated in Nin Lagoon, is one of the few sandy ones in Croatia. The water is shallow and the medicinal mud plentiful. Every mud bath comes with stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
Unfortunately we chose the coldest day of the three weeks. Perhaps ever. The place was deserted, everything was closed and it was fucking freezing. Nevertheless, we did a quick walk around. Sus, who feels the cold much more than her hardy husband (California versus Yorkshire), buggered off back to the car after an indecently short time. I, bravely, battled on and walked around the town by the water. It was indeed beautiful though neither would rush back.
Croatia – Makarska, Pogdora
Two and a half hours or a little less than 210 kilometres, largely down the E65, brought us to Makarska. With the exception of the impressively barren Biokovo Mountains that surround Makarska and the obligatory Adriatic panorama the town is a little underwhelming. It’s very much a beach town with a small limestone oldie bit, a similarly small harbour and an agreeable waterfront promenade which meanders around the modest bay.
Unless using Makarska as a base to explore the Dalmatian Coast a couple of nights will suffice. Makarska is not horrible, and makes an excellent stopover on the way down to Montenegro, it’s just not especially pretty or architecturally interesting. The views, however, are.
Montenegro – Kotor, Budva
It’s about a month since the trip and I contrived to omit both Montenegro and Lake Bled from these scribblings. A lake is perhaps forgivable but a whole country?
Makarska to Kotor (surprisingly located on the Bay of Kotor) is a four hour plus drive down the E65 – you will learn to love the E65 if you drive down the Croatian coast. More quality time with our UP! Bizarrely, because of the brutal Balkans War in the 1990s, you leave Croatia, pop into Bosnia and Herzegovina, pop back into Croatia before meandering into Montenegro. I can tell you little about Bosnia and Herzegovina apart from its unsurprising similarity to Croatia. It used to be the same country after all. And we were there for less than half an hour. Twice.
Kotor’s old town, encased by staunch, defensive walls, is a collection of mediaeval streets, squares and Romanesque churches. If this isn’t enough, Kotor is surrounded by water and mountains. It is genuinely gorgeous. Cruise ships arrive with the regularity of the Victoria line. Thankfully not when we were there.
We spent a number of hours during the next few days wandering around this mediaeval gem. Like everywhere else, little was open allowing us to enjoy the splendour of the place without the distraction of tourist hoards searching for the next Lonely Planet must do.
One numbingly cold evening the main square hosted a local band. The annoyingly good looking, English speaking and undoubtedly charming lead singer also played lead guitar. Brilliantly. Their covers of 1970 rock classics made for a mildly surreal experience. I remember a number of food and drink stalls. Everything was free.
Another day, another old town. This time Budva, less than 25 kilometres from Kotor. The road between Kotor and Budva is, I sincerely hope, an anomaly. It travels through what looks to have been a failed business enterprise zone. Some businesses have set up including a very disappointing hypermarket. However, there are far too many gaps, an occasional half built, abandoned building with litter strewn everywhere. The whole area is a little grim.
Budva new town is non-descript and, for many over developed. It houses abundant, shops, bars and clubs. Add into this hedonistic mix numerous beaches, a stunning bay and glorious weather and you have party central. Though not when we were there. Mercifully.
The old town, parts of which date back to mediaeval times, is parked on a small peninsula and surrounded by 15th century walls. Five gates are the only way in. Being pedestrianised Budva old town is enjoyable to stroll round. As you would expect, there’s no shortage of bars, restaurants and souvenir shops waiting for the unwary. The Citadel provides, for those who paid the small entrance fee, unparalleled views back across the Adriatic and the town.
I was unaware, until researching for this blog, that much of the old town had been rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1979. Unlike Dubrovnik, it doesn’t show and still worth a gander. Nevertheless, unless you’re a super cool party person it may be best avoiding the peak summer season.
Montenegro – Perast, Risan, Tivat
The following day was wet, blustery and cold. The weather was never to improve. A little unenthusiastically, we climbed into our faithful UP! and headed up the coast. We were to have one of the best days of those three weeks.
Perast a few kilometres, and a short drive, from Kotor is a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s a 17th and 18th century town masquerading as a village with numerous churches and Baroque palazzi. The only road (paved track) in or out separates it from the Bay of Kotor which, in turn, is surrounded by mountain scenery. There are two picturesque islands, one man made (with obligatory legend) housing a 15th century church, the other natural boasting a 12th century monastery. Both can be visited in the summer, neither could be visited in January. On the plus side both islands are clearly visible from shore. And we had the freedom of the parking bays.
Perast is often called little Venice and it’s easy to see why. The town, bay and mountains make it one of the most beautiful places either has been to.
Onwards to Risan. Risan is not a Perast. Not even close. Risan was once a bustling Roman town, the oldest settlement on the bay. Today a huge abandoned hotel on the sea front stands testament to its current state. However, one thing Risan does have that Perast does not is Roman mosaics. And, for a small entrance fee tourists, can view this stunning reminder of those glory days. We were the only visitors, a shame, the mosaics are beautiful.
Our final stop that rainy day was Tivat, a mere 12 kilometres from Kotor. Tivat is a modern and non-descript place with one redeeming feature – the naval base has been sexed up and is now a stylish, uber posh Marina. There are upmarket flats, upmarket shops and an upmarket delicatessen which was surprisingly good. We nipped into the upmarket Crush Wine Station to warm up, dry out and enjoy a couple of the local vinos. However, the undoubted stars of the show were the mind boggling super yachts moored in the marina. A few years ago we were captivated by the motor yachts at the London Boat Show. These Tivat residents were on a completely different scale. Smart car versus Range Rover.
A proper travel day.
Croatia – Dubrovnik
If you only do one thing in Dubrovnik have a stroll around the city walls. It’s expensive (everything in Dubrovnik is) but gives fantastic views of the old town, the Adriatic and the surrounding hills. And then lose yourself (and you will) in the beautiful streets of the old town. Once you find yourself passing the same souvenir shop for the fifth time head up to the fort – those of you who are Game of Thrones devotees will be particularly excited. There’s the Rector’s Palace, another expensive option, though worth a peek if you’ve run out of ideas.
We didn’t but it’s worth considering the Dubrovnik Card if you intend to visit the many attractions the old town has to offer. We, by accident, walked to a second harbour about 40 minutes from the old town. Though quite pretty, with large banks and shopping malls, the area felt more a commercial centre. Again, if you’re running out of tourist delights, it might be worth a stroll.
Kawa sits just outside the city walls and sells only Croatian goods – handbags, scarves, oil etc. They also have a cracking selection of local craft ales and a small selection of similarly local wine. This may not be the cheap option but it’s certainly the quality option. And a huge improvement on the omnipresent souvenir shops selling tourist trap crap. Most of which is probably manufactured in China.
Old town Dubrovnik is undeniably beautiful (even the newer bits aren’t exactly horrible) plonked in an equally beautiful setting. We found it a little soulless. Too many tourist apartments, too many bars, restaurants and shops peddling the same tourist rubbish. Much of the old town was rebuilt after the tragic Balkan wars of the early 1990s giving an almost Disney feel – especially with Games of Thrones and, to a lesser extent, Star Wars advertised everywhere.
That’s a shame. I suggest you avoid the summer (and therefore most of the cruise ships) and overcrowding. But go. Dubrovnik is worth it.
Final Thoughts
Favourites. Probably Ljubljana and Lake Bled closely followed by Kotor. Porec and Opatija also made a favourable impression. Zadar and Trieste were agreeable places to spend time. There was nowhere we hated, Zagreb and Makarska only underwhelmed.
On that very first morning, during the boat ride into Venice, we’d chatted to a lovely young, English couple. He was a line backer sized black guy; she was a diminutive (and much prettier) Muslim girl. Partly because of their obvious size discrepancy (and it was considerable), perhaps a little unusual. What was more unusual, striking even, was the utter lack of ethnic minorities in any of the local populations of the countries we visited. With an odd exception in Italy. Living in London specifically, and the UK generally, this was a genuine culture shock.
However, this was a fabulous three weeks. And travelling out of season certainly has its advantages – lower prices, a lack of other tourists and little need to book months in advance. There are obvious disadvantages – unpredictable and interesting weather, shorter daylight hours and closed tourist attractions. It was cold though only occasionally bitter (Nin) and there was only one truly miserable day. The closure of some tourist attractions, bars and restaurants was of no concern. Many of the bars and restaurants were tourist traps and I don’t remember one closed tourist site we’d have visited even if open.
For us the pros outweigh the cons and we’d not hesitate to travel at this time of year again. And remember we chose the Adriatic, not Northern Europe. For a reason.
Tony's Travel Blog 