Hamburg

Hamburg, officially and rather grandly the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg, is perhaps surprisingly Germany’s second largest city (Berlin takes first prize), home to 1.9 million residents and second largest economic centre. By cargo volume Hamburg port is the third busiest after Rotterdam and Antwerp. I’m sure Hamburg wins at something.

It does. Hamburg comprises more waterways than the combined efforts of Venice and Amsterdam. It’s also one of the greenest cities in Europe. Stick that up your portals Rotterdam and Amsterdam.

I have visited before – Sus hasn’t- but that was 40 years ago as a spotty teen maxing out my Interrail card. I suspect it’s changed.

An especially pissed off storm – whose silly name alludes me – delayed our flight by a day and we arrived on the Friday, not the Thursday as originally planned. In fairness we weren’t heading home until the following Friday and busy Wednesdays made any delay less onerous than it might have been. And we went to the pub.

More annoyingly, our BA flight was delayed by about an hour delaying our arrival at our hotel until about 8pm.

NH Mitte Hamburg is a 5-10 minute walk from the magnificently named Schlump (U2/U3) and a 5 minute walk from more traditionally named Christuskirche (U2). If you prefer a stroll, and we generally do, much of tourist Hamburg is reachable within about 30 minutes. The staff were friendly and helpful, our room clean and welcoming and the breakfast – we had it twice – excellent if expensive.

Like any other metro, in any other city the Hamburg Metro is not especially complicated. It’s clean, regular and extensive. The ticket machines less so. We observed the lesser spotted staff member though none appeared equipped to sell tickets to frustrated tourists. Probably wise.

Nevertheless, the most distinctive aspect of Hamburg’s Metro was the total lack of barriers. Anywhere. Now the good folk of Hamburg seemed a decent bunch but a system built on trust? For use by humans? Bizarre.

NH Mitte Hamburg is located in residential and pleasantly upmarket Eimsbüttel – the German language continued giving all week – one of Hamburg’s 7 boroughs. Once checked in, and a chat with the ever helpful staff, we wandered onto the wonderful Weidenallee. Literally around the corner from the Hotel this charming street is packed with interesting restaurants, local bars, bakeries and other speciality shops. And architecturally attractive with many handsome late Victorian and early 20th century buildings.

Weidenallee is a grown up street, witnessed by seemingly hoards of pram pushing parents. This is not the Reeperbahn and much the better for it. Unless you’re under 20 with raging hormones. We, however, loved it.

Denns, an organic supermarket, became a regular haunt (sad but oh so true) as did Beyond Beer (www.beyondbeer.de), a bottle shop full of beery treats. Sus had chosen the hotel. I hid my delight well.

For a little more craft beery stuff please go to https://wordpress.com/post/tonysbeersnobblog.wordpress.com/575

There’s also a Michelin one star restaurant (Jellyfish), annoyingly closed until after we returned home.

Hang a right at Denns and you enter Schanzenviertel, an area nicked from the lovely Eimsbüttel borough by the naughty Altona borough. Hamburg’s Hunger Games. Considered only second to the Reeperbahn for nightlife Sternschanze is chock full of bars, boutiques, takeout food joints and graffiti. Hamburg appears to attract graffiti artists. Must be the climate.

Depending on viewpoint, Schanzenviertel has definitely benefitted or suffered from gentrification. We both liked the area, with it’s Schanzenpark and convenient Sternschanze U Bahn (U3). We often stopped there for a cheeky takeout, a cheekier Denn’s or extremely cheeky light ale at Beyond Beer. All were between Sternschanze station and our hotel, perhaps a 10-15 minutes walk away.

The Long Walk

We had no set plan, just head towards Nord Hauptbahnhof, the Central Station. We took the roundabout route. Very roundabout route. And, I felt a tad unfairly, it rained on us. On and off all day.

Sus. Being Sus.

After starting as we’d finished the previous evening (Weidenallee and Schanzenvierte) we took a left somewhere (probably) before passing Hamburg’s very own entry into ‘Sexiest Telecom Tower’ along with the BT Tower near Tottenham Court Road here in London. Next modern exhibition halls (Messehallen on U2) before a welcome stroll through the quite lovely Stadtpark.

On leaving the park we discovered both the Radisson Blu and Central Station. The Radisson Blu was indeed the Radisson Blu. The Central Station was not the Central Station. It was the beautiful Bahnhof Dammtor and, an in another city, a main railway station.

Continuing our wander we came across the Binnenalster (Inner Alster Lake). On the opposite bank spires peeked out from between handsome edifices and a resplendent Christmas tree.

A pretty 19th century bridge took us across – not literally we had to walk – to Hauptbahnhof. Victorian residential architecture is undoubtably handsome though I actually prefer the Art Deco and Georgian period. Nevertheless, Victorian residential architecture pales in comparison to Victorian industrial architecture. Temples to power and influence. Hauptbahnhof is such an example. Hamburg had arrived.

It’s gorgeous, both on the outside and perhaps more so on the inside, rivalling such masterpieces as London’s St Pancras and New York’s Grand Central.

However, it should be remembered many accuse those same Victorians, with some justification, of architectural vandalism tearing down beautiful historical buildings in the name of progress.

The area around the Hauptbahnhof is a tad sketchy though literally across the road is the main shopping centre. High end shops vie with large department stores and chains for that holistic shopping experience. Agreeable enough not necessarily our cup of designer cufflinks.

Perhaps the highlight was a fish ladder enabling finned ones to navigate a difficult stretch of the Elbe. It’s a human solution to a problem often created by humans. Heartening to witness.

The Adam and Eve Soul Food Restaurant (Schanzenvierte) was our chosen eating establishment. And delicious it was too, easily recommended. Cheeky ales at Beyond Beer (https://www.beyondbeer.de/en/) polished off our long walk – 10.5 kilometres according to our suspiciously clever iPhone.

New Years Eve Day/Lubeck

After our first attempt to eat as much as our own body weight at breakfast – as would you at 20 Euros a pop – we began our exploring.

It was a Sunday. Hamburg, with the exception of a few restaurants and bars, closes its doors on a Sunday – vaguely reminiscent of England in the 1980s.

However, if you find yourself need of retail therapy or schnitzel sandwich the larger railways stations, including their shops and bars, are open as near normal. And Hauptbahnhof was our destination, a Lubeck daytrip the purpose of the visit. Not a schnitzel sandwich.

Located at the end of the platforms a small glassed in area served as a bar and smoking den. It was busy at 11.30am and appeared to have been open for some time. Perhaps glassed so that passing passengers might judge and feel better about themselves. I certainly did and did.

From our own observations, smoking was more prevalent in Hamburg than London. Conversely, vaping appeared considerably less popular particularly amongst the young.

Acquiring tickets and the 45 minute train journey were painless. The unfolding scenery, comprising of uninspiring countryside and somewhat dreary conurbations, was disappointing.

Lübeck was neither dreary or uninspiring. This mediaeval marvel, and UNESCO World Heritage Site, is surrounded by water and perhaps surprisingly built to a plan. Which survives intact, in part thanks to 1970s activists, to this day. Mediaeval and Renaissance town houses, 5 gothic churches and canals dominate Lübeck’s old town. Much of Lübeck originates from when the Hanseatic League was top mutt with lucky Lübeck controlling North European long distance trade.

Lübeck is gorgeous even on a wet, cold and windy Sunday afternoon. We spent several happy hours wandering contentedly around only stopping for vegan nosh at NI Vegan. Genuine surprise – it was open and the food was possibly the best we ate all week.

Suitably foddered we explored further discovering the Rathaus – a sometimes appropriate moniker for those town hall folk if a tad unfair on rats – and beautiful churches. Popping into one showed the outside was no fluke. Magnificant.

We had a 27 minute walk back to the train station. Our train was in 29 minutes. Rain added further incentive. A little drama, particularly when cruelly tricked by google (sent down a blocked road). Cue dramatic rousing music as we boarded with minutes to spare. In truth, the next train was only half an hour behind. More ‘Railway Children’ than ‘Brief Encounter’.

Back to hotel, beers bought the previous evening, whilst listening to New Year fireworks. Not the barrage one hears in London.

St Pauli

Knowing New Year morning would offer sparse breakfast options we, at the hotel buffet breakfast, again maximised our food intake against body mass. Including a donut. The fine people of Hamburg – and they really were – love a donut or several.

Predictably, tranquility reigned as we strolled towards St Pauli. With the exception of a Trans club. Apparently and rather admirably still drum and bassing (or whatever) the day after the night before. It was loud. It was after midday. Making it beyond 10.30pm fills us with a sense of pride.

Detritus of Hamburg’s partying masses was, unremarkably, everywhere. Debris from unimaginative beverage and food choices were expected. What wasn’t was evidence of deceased fireworks liberally smeared over the urban landscape. Though Germany has relatively strong laws surrounding the sale and setting off fireworks Hamburg appears to favour the pavement as a launchpad. Bizarre.

On our way to the infamous Reeperbahn we passed FC St Pauli, a football team in the 2nd tier of German footy. So what? FC St Pauli have developed a cult following within Germany and outside for their strong and politically liberal stances. The stadium is sold out game after game. Sales of their merchandise out strips most top tier clubs.

I love football, have most of my life. Nevertheless, occasionally it’s not about trophies, the football on the pitch or owner’s money. It’s about a strong community and a better world. Go FC St Pauli.

A carpark sits in front of the ground and a bizarre construction to one side. Part evil factory, part futuristic garden city in the sky. This bastard child is still under construction. What will it become when it reaches building adulthood. A destroyer of worlds or a bringer of peace?

The Reeperbahn is a street, or neighbourhood, infamous for nightlife, bars, fast food joints and prostitution – legal in this bit of Hamburg. Unsurprisingly, a street both loved and loathed, was quiet early afternoon on New Year’s Day.

Epic levels of detritus from the previous night’s festivities covered the street. The homeless gathered around in small groups. An air of vague menace added to the weird vibe. The Reeperbahn, particularly one side, is all rather nasty. Sus wanted off as soon as she arrived on. I felt similar but wanted to better understand this notorious street.

Not for us, not our cup of fizzy lager. We are in our 50s, not 20s. For any hormone laden, late teen the Reeperbahn might appear a nirvana. Vague memories of my 20s offer insight. If not understanding.

Cold weather and age had adversely affected my apparently shrinking bladder. A Brewdog, at the top of the Reeperbahn, proved most welcome. I chatted to the manager, acquired an ale, went to the toilet a second time. Then left.

On leaving the dog that brews – now that would get the punters in – we ambled over to Hamburg’s Speicherstadt, the warehouse district. Built between 1881 and the late 1920s this UNESCO World Heritage site is the largest warehouse complex in the world. And quite beautiful.

I’ve always admired warehouse architecture – Butlers Wharf being a favourite building in London – and Sus adores miniature worlds. One of these beautiful warehouses contained Miniatur Wunderland (https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/). Put together my 2 enterprising brothers back in 2000 Miniatur Wunderland happens to be the largest model railway system in the world and been voted the most popular German tourist attraction. Apparently, many agree with Sus. I found it’s often the best way.

Miniatur Wunderland is properly spectacular with numerous miniature worlds including an airport. We spent 2 absorbing hours wondering at both the details and scale. Unfortunately, we weren’t able see all the worlds – somehow missed South America, not easy to do. There’s always next time.

Highly recommended.

Back to our hood for a beverage and food. Then sleep. We’d somehow walked further than the day before.

Harbour Cruise Day

Breakfast was at Denn’s. Obviously. It was an unpleasantly wet and cold day. Thermals were an invisible part of our wardrobe, probably a good thing seeing how figure hugging they were. No one wants to see that early on a back to work day.

We squelched our way down to the harbour – or Sus did. Leaky shoes, each foot encased in a plastic bag, doomed her to freezing feet for much of the day.

An English chap, with a disconcerting resemblance and manner of an ex colleague, explained the merits of the various boat trips. After careful consideration, we chose the first to leave. The weather may have influenced our decision. Being allowed on board to wait out the 20 minutes before departure perhaps played a part.

The small and agreeably serviceable boat was equipped with large expenses of glass, clean toilets and a bar selling snacks and beverages. An improvement on other watery excursions where a tiny wave might turn the boat into a mini Titanic.

We journeyed through the warehouse district, passed streets both recognisable and yet to be explored before the port proper.

I was utterly captivated by the balletic loading of a huge container ship enduring the freezing cold and rain on a small open area at our boat’s stern. No human activity was visible only adding to this magnificent mechanical ballet.

Though expensive (30 Euro each) and with an overly loud and enthusiastic German commentary (English was available via an inevitable app) this hour long cruise, with and perhaps even because of the awful weather, was hugely enjoyable.

After again wandering around the shopping area, and with the weather unable to compromise, we headed back to the hotel so Sus could thaw out her feet.

You’ve guessed correctly, off to another craft beer spot for an ale or two. A 15 minutes stroll from our hotel brings thirsty patrons to the unimaginatively named Craft Bier Bar. The lack of the oft silly name more than compensated by about 30 taps of quality crafts and delicious pizza.

An Alien Invasion. Or a wet carpark outside a supermarket.

Bremen

Bremen is a little more than an hour by train from Hamburg. The charming scenery (a welcome upgrade from between Hamburg and Lubeck) is speckled with similarly attractive towns and villages. Noticeable was the amount of flooding in passing fields.

Bremen is another of those once successful Hanseatic cities this time located on the river Weser.

The UNESCO world Heritage sites of town hall (1405) and oddly named Roland Statue (1404), symbolising the city’s freedoms, both play a their part in Bremen’s beautiful market square. The town hall, in particular, is a proper stunner and worth the train money alone.

Contentedly installed in the town hall cellars Bremen’s Ratskeller houses one of the oldest and finest collections of German wine. St Peter’s Cathedral, dating back to the 11th century, also competes for your affections with its UNESCO chums.

And do check out the wonderfully quirky Bremen Town Musicians statue (1953) close to the town hall. A fan favourite. Including us.

Böttcherstraße (1922 to 1932), and built in the architecturally rare expressionist style according to the Bremen Tourist Site, and a gem to meander slowly down. Bremen’s oldest district, the Schnoor quarter, is a maze of pretty 5th and 16th century lanes lined with similarly pretty shops and houses.

For those craving a little modernity and retail therapy Bremen also has an attractive town shopping heart with all the usual suspects.

We knew what we were getting with Lübeck, Bremen was more of an unknown. Somewhat unexpectedly we preferred the latter to the former.

The return train was at least 30 minutes late. So much for famed German efficiency.

Omnipollo (https://www.omnipolloshamburg.com/) was another craft brew spot. And pink. Undoubtably the quirkiest of the 3 Hamburg craft outposts. Great beer and friendly service were a given.

Very pink.

Große Elbstraße

Our last full day in Hamburg. Late start, metro to Landungsbrücken (harbour) hanging a right and not our usual left towards the town centre. We like to live dangerously.

We wandered into St Pauli. Tiptoeing gentrification apparently replacing ‘don’t ever go there’ to ‘Darling, I think we should buy in St Pauli’. After Reeperbahn nastiness this was both a significant and welcome upgrade.

Große Elbstraße, scampering alongside the Elbe, was especially charming. Original fish market buildings attractively converted into shops, fish restaurants and bars. FrischeParadies is an upmarket supermarket with a fish cafe at one end. We ate there. It was fab. The wine was also splendid. We later discovered it on the shelves for less than half the price. Bugger. Should have stuck to the house wine.

Back to Schanzenviertel, breakfast treats from Denns, beer treats from Beyond Beer. It had been a bitterly cold day, even our thermals were thinking about a holiday, but a thoroughly enjoyable one.

Flying Home Day

It was snowing. Rather alot. A gallery appealed.

We slipped and slithered our way to the Kunsthalle enjoying an hour or two with some Grand Masters.

They say hi.

Back to the hotel, airport, flight home.

Final Thoughts

Highlights? Warehouse district, Miniatur Wunderland, distinct neighbourhoods, the water.

We’ve visited Berlin and Munich each a couple of times. Great cities both. But you know what, we preferred Hamburg. Even with the cold and wet weather. Hamburg is attractive, green and friendly. And perhaps doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Loved it.

Many thanks for reading.