Arrival
A 3.30am alarm call. Not a popular choice. A dodgy wheel on suitcase. Unbounded joy. It was raining.
Things quickly improved. Apart from that dodgy wheel. Lizzy line took us to Heathrow Terminal 2. This being well before 5am. Flight to Geneva, a hour’s train to Lausanne. Happy days.
Brief History of Lausanne
Those roaming Romans founded what we now recognise as Lausanne. Roman remnants still exist though don’t recall bumping into, or trading upon, any.
Post Italian dalliance, and by the 6th century, Lausanne had morphed into a religious powerhouse thanks to a bishopric. Profitable and so on trend. The 14th and 15th were significantly less fun, the city succumbing to plague, fires and civil unrest. As did so many other great cities.
Protestant reformation swept the city in the 16th century. As did Bernese rule, noisy neighbours from up north. Napoleon booted the Bernese out with Lausanne gaining independence in 1803.
Lausanne again flourished in 19th century becoming both a cultural hub and the capital of Vaud. And a tick box destination for those on the Grand Tour. Lucky buggers.
Lausanne
The train into Lausanne was not especially cheap (CHF30 each). Mercifully, unlike incomprehensible German ticket machines, their Swiss brethren were straight forward. The exception, an American chap struggling a tad with the public transport concept.
Our hotel was a steep climb away. On cobbles. With a dodgy wheel. Bit of a slog. Deposited offending bag – too early to check in – before heading out. Into the rain.
Lausanne hotels offer tourists ‘Lausanne Transport Card’. Travel within the city, discounts into museums, buildings etc. We asked the price. Free. Concierge probably should have led with that.
Jumped on the Croisettes/Ouchy Metro Line – our hotel a couple of minutes from Bessiéres metro station. Efficient, clean and very deep. Don’t sniff at the lift and take the stairs. I did. Not my best decision.
The metro terminates at Ouchy, sadly not pronounced as some of you may be hoping. We alighted.
Ouchy, skirts the monumental Lake Geneva, featuring parks, waterside promenades, a rose garden and a 12th century chateau. The latter now a hotel. Riff raff in their hotel? The original owners must be turning in their mausoleum, pondering how to charge rent.
Cafes and bars sprinkle the promenade. As did an impressively large number of impressively large crows. Swans were also much in evidence. Scary buggers.
Not many humans. Wet and windy conditions may have been a contributory factor.
Squelched back to Ouchy Metro, alighted at CHUV, a couple of stops after Bessières. Thought a stroll through the Rues of Lausanne might be enjoyable. Thought wrong. Pissing it down. And stop for city hospital. Neither appealed.
Jumped back onto metro, jumped off at Ours, one stop after, eh, ours. Ambled to hotel, checked in, slept.
Emerged, a little dazed, a couple of hours later. Cathédrale de Lausanne was a short (uphill) walk from our hotel. It’s a gothic marvel with added 16th century gorgeousness.
The organ, though modern, imitates an angel and quite spectacular. Some of the beautiful stain glass has survived from gothic time. Later centuries have seen ongoing renovation and conservation.
As a bonus, the cathedral courtyard offers dramatic vistas over Lausanne, Lake Geneva and onto the mountains. Selfie paradise.
The following 45 minutes found us meandering the old town, Lausanne Cathedral being the highlight. The old town is an agreeable mix of period properties ranging from the medieval to 20th century. Won’t necessarily send you into raptures of architectural superlative but very much merits a meander.
Finished our day with an expensive but excellent Poke bowl.
Montreux/Vevey
Out by 10am. And on a Montreux train by 10.30. CHF15 return. Each. This for a 20 minute journey. Switzerland is not for the budget minded. The train travels alongside Lake Geneva organising the occasional glimpse.
On arrival, a less than glamorous route, via stairs and car park, deposited on Montreux High Street.
Popped into tourist information, helpful lady planned our day. First up, old town. And up it was. The old town’s handsome, Belle Époque architecture make for a pleasant meander.
The Church St Vincent, a little above the old town, offers stunning vistas from its grounds. Traces of its Romanesque roots can still be spotted though the current incumbent dates from the 15th century.
We wandered back down to the Montreux Promenade which borders Lake Geneva. The Alps shout for your attention, rising as they do, from the opposite bank of the lake. This is as an agreeable stroll as you’ll likely to agree on.
The medieval Château de Chillon (Chillon Castle) is, remarkably, built on a small island on Lake Geneva. Its origin story dates back to the 11th century, though much of what we now see, sprouted a century later. Later centuries, particularly the 15th century, brought updates and embellishments. Systematic renovations continued into the late 19th century.
Châteaux de Chillon both defended and protected profitable trade routes. Basically a very pretty toll bridge.
The Châteaux is deceptively tardis like. We paid €15) to explore the interior. Took us about an hour and 45 minutes. Time constraints permitting, merits a looksee.
Caught the 201 bus (electric, bendy, air conditioned, loveliness) back to Moureaux. Meandered the promenade, sought out the underwhelming casino and fun Freddie Mercury statue. Six Queen albums were recorded in Montreux with Mercury divided his time between London and Montreux from the early 1990s.
Montreux has a little bit of Monaco about it. Though prettier. With the exception of the Châteaux Montreux, though likable, was not our cup of casino chips.
Vevey
Vevey was. Instead of returning to Lausanne we stopped off in Vevey. And rather pleased we did. So was Charlie Chaplin. He resided in Vevey for 25 years until his demise in 1977.
A short amble from Vevey train station is the huge main square welcoming, on one side, Lake Geneva. Spectacular Alpine vistas included.
The old town, adjacent to the main square showcases medieval architecture (Église Réformée Saint Martin) and later architectural genres. Winding streets, artisan wares and those spectacular views all included.
It is possible to swim from the main square. Plus, for added realism, a small artificial beach has been created. With deck chairs for added authenticity.
Other beaches live nearby evidenced by damp dogs and humans squishing, happily home.
We spent the late afternoon, early evening in Le Carre, a popular local and tourist bistro. People watched, ate delicious local produce and drank even better local wine.
Vevey was a favourite. It’s elegant, beautifully located with a relaxed vibe. Recommend a half day, more if time permits.
Is a UNESECO world heritage site. Culture and wine. Genius.
The tradition of winemaking, in Lavaux, is all thanks to medieval monks. Getting pissed and making money more appealing, apparently, than a small, cold cell and self-flagellation.
From Gare de Lausanne (central train station) board a local train (R train) stopping at Lutry. Alight, use underpass to access opposite platform. Turn left out of Lutry station and again left up the hill at the end of the road. Two minutes up the hill, on the right, you should discover a paved pathway. One entry point – of many – into the terraces.
Don’t, as you leave the station, be fooled by signs pointing to information. Fake news. It’s a so called information board showing info easily eked out of google. Other search engines are available.
Once happily embedded amongst the vines a number of paths – marked with coloured arrows – present themselves.
The route we followed, perhaps halfway up the terraces, was conveniently marked by yellow arrows and, occasionally, a yellow man hiking. We detoured from our yellow friend, both above and below, in our wilder moments. Our chosen destination was Epesse, perhaps two and a half hours from Lutry. Excluding wine time. And detours.
Where pavements are available, our yellow chum, occasionally detoured onto a local road. And the paved pathway itself, for much of its length, is accessible to local traffic and cyclists. So beware, once the vino kicks in and common sense is kicked out. Water fountains (literally) are helpfully sprinkled along the route.
You’re surrounded by vines, Lake Geneva is below, the Alps lurking beyond. Pretty villages (Aran, Epesse) dot the landscape. It’s utterly, utterly captivating.
One minor issue. Nothing was open. And there’s no shortage of wineries. This was a Monday, around midday. Not an inspired choice of time or day.
Nevertheless, one undoubted highlight, was spotting a reddish bird of prey (kite?). To our astonishment this magnificent creature literally hovered before diving almost vertically. An insect, perhaps searching for its own lunch, became lunch. Or, at least, a starter.
Eventually, somewhat bizarrely, we came across a self service vineyard. A small shop showcased, amongst assorted edibles, the vineyard’s wines in a fridge. We picked a half bottle, left dosh in a cash box, sipped our bounty on a terrace overlooking vines and Lake Geneva.
Epesse, probably the fairest of the Lavaux villages, also had a vineyard open. We ambled in, ambled out 2 hours later.
To be honest, it wasn’t a problem. I suspect, if more vineyards had been ouvert, we wouldn’t have completed our intended route. And that would have been a dreadful shame.
Transport costs? Nothing. Covered by the Lausanne Travel Card. The wine? Sadly not free though reasonably priced. Lack of air miles.
Tours, obviously are available. And a tad silly motorised wine train that winds through the terraces. Spotted it only the once. Full of bored Japanese tourists presumably heading for a Lake Geneva boat tour.
Tours may well suit, and understandably so. Our tip would be go DIY. Check wineries are open, especially if it’s one you’ve picked out in advance. Research routes, read a blog and trust Apple Maps to guide you. You’ll have a fabulous time. We did.
Wandered down to Epesse train station – about 15 minutes from the village centre – and returned to Lausanne. Trounces the view from North Ealing station. Encouragingly, for North Ealing, the tube is far more frequent.
Supermarket (obviously), take out, writing this.
Highly recommended. A must do. Plan a day. And perhaps the following to recover and eat fruit. As opposed to drinking it.
Coffee and suitcase
The Coop were having a sale. We needed a new suitcase. Happy ending for all. Celebrated with an excellent coffee.
Returned to Lutry, only 10 minutes from Lausanne by train. Not for wine but for a swim. The healthy option. Do take the time to explore Lutry. It’s a handsome town, with a well to do commuter vibe.
The beach, a stone’s throw from the town centre, is stone. Doubtless all the stone throwing. And the sun was shirking its responsibilities. Nevertheless, the beach had a lovely local vibe with clean toilets, changing facilities and bbqing cafe. It just felt right.
After initial trepidation, we spent half an hour in the lake attempting to get warm. Lake Geneva is fresh water not salt water. One emerges cleaner and fresher than one’s initial foray. Fabulous.
Once out, dried out, warmed up opted to walk back to Lausanne. Paused here, lingered there taking a couple of hours to reach Ouchy.
Micro beaches, handsome waterside pads, cafes and bars unobtrusively wander into one’s eye line. Lake Geneva and the Alps keep you company. A marvellous meander. Weather permitting, recommend you do the same.
Metro from Ouchy to hotel. Grabbed a take out curry. From a supermarket. Where else.
Spent the late afternoon/early evening in La Mise en Bière. Perhaps 30 taps of local and not so local beer treats. Plus, and owned by the same people, a bottle shop next door with a comprehensive selection of beery lovelies. Cloudwater, Track and Verdant all well represented. Great breweries but, when travelling, one should sample the local brews.
Seating inside and out, cheese and meat boards also available. Helpful staff, relaxed atmosphere – this was a Tuesday – made for an enjoyable end of day. Might still be there if Sus wasn’t falling asleep.
Supped quality ale, observing folks wander by. Recommended for any craft beer fans.
A mighty fine day.
Lausanne
Weirdly the only full day we were to spend in Lausanne. Wandered the handsome shopping precinct, encountered the very elegant and presumably very expensive Palace Hotel. Housing a 2 star Michelin restaurant. Presumably very expensive.
A little further along is yet more elegance in the shape of Palais de Justice and Casino. Encased in pleasant parkland greenery.
Serendipity found Quartier du Flon. So should you. Apparently, once an industrial wasteland Flon is now a bustling, innovative and thriving district. Warehouses have been converted into theatres, art venues, bars and restaurants. The main thoroughfare is thoughtfully pedestrianised, seating is plentiful.
Now we understood why so many passengers exited metro at Flon.
Next metro adventure, Vennes for Lausanne Aquarium. It’s expensive (CHF32) though, mercifully, on our visit, mostly empty of screaming children. We actually checked before purchasing ticket.
If you love fish, snakes, an occasional frog (and who doesn’t love frogs) and lizards of various sizes, this is for you. Otherwise, may I suggest La Mise en Bière. Probably cheaper.
We emerged a most enjoyable 2 and a half hours later. Highlights, a Komodo Dragon that may have been at the fermented fruit, mating frogs, impossibly coloured fish and splendid snakes.
Hotel for a short intermission. Post intermission food and beers (latter from Epiq) to enjoy back in our room.
I wanted to catch The Germany/ Spain game. And discover who’d be the lucky recipient of facing England in the final.
Spain as it turned out. Damn.
Return to Geneva
We checked out, caught a train to Geneva. We’d scheduled a couple of days in the city before heading home.
We’d checked in, deposited luggage and headed out to the old town all before midday. We were enveloped with a warm feeling of smugness. Mainly me really.
The Geneva Transport Card offers complementary travel within Geneva. As with Lausanne your hotel should offer this benefit. If they don’t, ask.
First stop, the International Monument to the Reformation, inaugurated in 1909. This being the 16th century Protestant Reformation , not a reality tv show depicting spare toilet makeovers.
Located in the attractive grounds of the University of Geneva it depicts important Protestant figures from around Europe. John Calvin – the chap who’d gave us Calvinism – settled in Geneva and one of those lucky enough to be depicted. A significant historical moment in Geneva’s development, if not our cup of worldview.
And at 100 metres in length, a tad tricky to miss.
Ambled into the old town, cobbles, elegance and peaceful. The 13th century Saint Peters Cathedral dominates Vieille Ville. Revisions and renovations have taken a little away from those long ago days though the organ is indeed a thing of beauty.
Architecturally, Vieille Ville is a smorgasbord of medieval and later genres. And blended harmoniously together affording tourists a glimpse into numerous bygone days. The near absence of tourist tat trap establishment, replaced with artisans and tempting restaurants, only adds to a sense of charm and calm.
Back to hotel to pick up keys, transfer bags to room and briefly recuperate.
Yellow water taxis (Mouettes or seagulls) ply their trade across Lake Geneva. Lines 1 and 2 are free with the Geneva card, and plonk tourists at the English Garden. We get everywhere. The crossing is perhaps 10 minutes offering an alternative perspective of the city.
The English Garden is an attractive small stretch of greenery hosting both a fountain and bandstand. Alongside, and beyond, is a lakeside paved pathway. A promenade. And busy with people promenading.
There’s a boardwalk out to the 140 meter high, and famous, Jet d’Eau. A symbol of Geneva.
Small public beaches and grass expanses to picnic on. There’s toilets, showers and a restaurant incorporated into the largest of the 2 harbours. If we lived here, we’d be down here.
Parc La Grange, across the road from the beach area, is a beautiful and tranquil spot resplendent with an 18th century villa.
After ambling through a small slither we emerged onto Rue de Eaux-Vives. The neighbourhood, of the same name, is adorned with handsome 19th century architecture and a mite upmarket. Eatme supplied us with scrumptious food and delectable wine.
On leaving, headed back to the hotel. Slumber time. We know how to party.
Chocolate Day
After an excellent breakfast at our hotel we went in search of Tourist Information. We knew they lived in Geneva Train Station, and after numerous false starts, found them. Signage isn’t a Swiss strength.
Once found a young lady proved most helpful. She mentioned they were searching for new premises as tourists struggled to locate them. Not a selling point for a tourist information
We purchased a Chocolate Pass from our young lady friend allowing tourists to visit and receive sample chocolates from 10 participating chocolatiers. A map guides choco lovers on a self-guided tour.
Cost? CHF30. Which equates to, conservatively, 50 chocolates. Most of which currently reside in suitcase somewhere in the bowels of Geneva airport. Sus doesn’t eat milk chocolate so little point buying a second pass. One should be enough for most couples. Even, as we believe, good chocolate being one of life’s essentials.
A number of the chocolatiers gave a prepared spiel, others were happy to chat. All but one were helpful and friendly. Martel being the exception. We felt an inconvenience, not spending enough money to warrant their time.
We sampled a few of the chocolates, all were delicious, this being quality stuff. Pride, in their chocolate, was obvious. Bit like McDonalds.
The pass covers any one 24 hour period. Activated at the first chocolatier reached. A number of the chocolatiers are to be found in the old town or nearby. Others require more effort. Many have a second or even third shop not participating. We decided to visit all 10, including the furthest away – La Bombonniere – which had 2 shops partaking. You decide which of the two you wish to visit.
Total time? Perhaps 3 hours. We neither rushed nor dawdled. And a marvellous way to acquaint oneself with the city.
Geneva is not a huge metropolis and, as with most cities, discrete neighbourhoods blur into one another. However, not forgetting the old town, a couple of stood out – Rue-Basse and Eaux-Vives.
For posh shopping nirvana, have a stroll through the beautifully elegant Rue-Basses. Rue du Rhone and Rue de la Croix d’Or forms part of this elegant consumer paradise. Bon chance unearthing a bargain. Rue-Basses is more Gucci than Primark.
The hitherto mentioned Eaux-vives includes Jet d’Eau and one of the heftier neighbourhoods. It’s the neighbourhood for those who have a penchant for late 19th and early 20th century architecture. Stylish, liveable and difficult to avoid.
In our wanderings, we touched on numerous others. And we both preferred Rue-Basse and Eaux-Vives to the old town.
We occupied our late afternoon and early evening at La Tenuta Wine Shop, Bar & Restaurant (https://www.latenuta.ch/). A wonderful and stylish way to complete our time in Switzerland.
Observations/Tips
Take advantage of the free travel offered, in your hotel, in both Lausanne and Geneva. If not offered, ask and thy shall receive. And ensure you understand which areas are included.
Similarly, if you take a train journey outside of the free travel, buy a ticket. Tickets, for local and regional travel, are not always verified. There are no barriers as such. However, if you’re caught without a valid ticket, expect heavy fines. But for Sus’s quick thinking we’d have found ourselves CHF75 worse off.
Clean, free public toilets are seemingly omnipresent. As is drinking water. Most commendable. Signage is not as commonplace. Following said signage to clean, free public toilets, after sampling the ubiquitous drinking water, may not end well.
Litter is noticeable for its near absence. Fly tipping is non-existent. Certainly in our small, Switzerland sample. It does exist, the suburbs are a tad less cleansed than more touristy bits. Nevertheless, it makes many a European city, including parts of London, look rather dirty. I’ve always blamed ignorant morons for depositing litter, not the local authorities striving to clean up. My impression was less ignorant morons exist in Switzerland.
Geneva and Lausanne are not cheap. Eating out, drinking out, supermarkets, train travel were all more expensive than London. I suspect hotels are price comparable.
Lausanne is a most agreeable city, friendly and easily navigated. Additionally, it’s is a wonderful base to explore the Swiss Riviera. Our recommendations, once Lausanne itself appropriately investigated? Lavaux Vignoble en Terraces an absolute must. As is Vevey. A stroll from Lutry to Ouchy another highlight. I would advocate at least 3 full days in Lausanne to allow, if nothing else, an outing to the wine terraces
Two days in Geneva wasn’t enough. I’d visited, 30 plus years ago, during the madness that is interrailing tick boxing. Another sojourn is entirely possibly. It’s a city we actually preferred to Lausanne.
Summary
Switzerland, or our Lake Geneva fragment, delighted us. Attractive towns and cities, affable inhabitants and pristine conditions. It’s safe (to be fair, we yet to visit somewhere that isn’t) and public amenities are second to none.
Yes, day to day expenses will be higher than those in Europe and the UK. Nevertheless, a winning combination of appealing conurbations and truly magnificent scenery is difficult to argue with.
The Lavaux Vignoble en Terraces will live long in the memory. And England ladies bettered Spain in the European Championships.
Thankyou Switzerland. We will return.
Tony's Travel Blog 