COLOGNE, BERLIN, WARSAW, VILNIUS, RIGA

I interrailed 40 years ago. Could say it felt just like yesterday. It doesn’t.

And so, partly due to 2, dick swinging morons indulging in and perpetuating a war no one wanted or needed, partly trialling a future longer trip and partly inspired by chum Mike, we found ourselves on a Eurostar one Saturday morning.

Plan was Cologne, Berlin, Warsaw, Vilnius and Riga staying between 2 and 4 nights in each. Trains, and one coach, depositing yours truly and wife into each chosen destination. Flight home. Otherwise, be still on our way back.

Trailfinders (TF) booked the trains and hotels, the rest was all us.

Eurostar can be expensive. Unless you’re able to book a decade in advance. Limited perhaps too in destinations. Nevertheless, for me certainly, fucks flying every time. Wonderfully civilised commencement to any continental journey.

And, what we didn’t grasp until we’d boarded, was TF upgrading our outward journey. A very pleasant purgatory between economy and first class. Entitling us to delectable breakfast pastries, yogurt and coffee.

COLOGNE

Arrival, Hotel, Wander

As one emerges from Köln Hauptbahnhof, Cologne Cathedral magnificently appears. It’s so close, a well judged stone could break a window. Please don’t.

Figured enough images of cathedral – which I couldn’t do justice to anyway – so instead, I give you a photo of train station.

The hotel was only five minutes away, ten as we, thanks to one map app or another, took an unwanted detour. Checked in.

With mid-afternoon fast approaching, time to reconnoitre.

Tragically, for both inhabitants and their architecture, Cologne was heavily bombed during WW2.

The vast majority 15th to 17th century buildings were devastatingly destroyed leaving a mixture of survivors, reconstructions and post war buildings. Unfortunately, many of the latter are unworthy of the former.

Two large squares, both again central to the cathedral, and seemingly busy all day, offer restaurants and bars aplenty.

Walked, walked some more, carried on walking until chancing upon Rheinauhafen, 19th century docks transformed into a modern, upscale waterfront district. Museums, galleries, cafes, restaurants and modern architecture all cohabit reasonably happily. Fascinating and handsome. Give it a whirl. Glad we did.

Hotel, sleep for 9 hours.

Cologne Proper

Post a lovely and leisurely breakfast popped into the cathedral (free). Sunday Mass meant only a brief visit. However, returned later to properly gawp.

Huge with scoring gothic ceilings and gorgeous stain glass windows make an impressive statement. What bits are gothic gothic and what bits are mock gothic difficult to decipher. Nevertheless, worth a gander.

Behind the cathedral is the iconic Hohenzollern Bridge famed for its love lock multitudes. Constructed early in the 20th century it’s a vital railway bridge – 1,500 trains trundle across every day.

It also happens to be quite beautiful.

Once across the bridge and the Rhein one happens upon Köln Triangle. Comprising of a short stretch of riverfront, a short meander inland to the attractive Köln Messe/ Deutz train station (Deutz being the district) and completed by a return to the river via a viewing platform.

The latter, offering genuinely 360 degree vistas of the city, is housed in an office block 29 floors up. Striking vistas across the city, the Hohenzollern Bridge crossing the river is especially memorable.

Pay the €5 entrance fee, you won’t be disappointed.

Those expecting the Köln Triangle to be a trendy food/vintage market (us) will be severely discouraged. It’s not. The viewing platform is a must, the rest easily and quickly forgotten.

This was nice though.

Cologne does offer ample opportunity to ramble along the river. It’s just not as attention grabbing as other cities, including our own.

The main shopping streets, close by the cathedral, are neither pretty nor ugly. Just meh. For those searching consumer therapy they will undoubtedly suffice.

One highlight was an Eau de Cologne shop. Surprising, as I’ve never taken to aftershave and Sus never to perfume. To put your minds at rest, both wear deodorant. It never occurred, probably due to a lack of interest, to put the city of Cologne together with Eau de Cologne. The dreadful, unimaginative, all the same ads for both don’t help.

Anyway, punters and voyeurs alike were able to sniff numerous perfumes and spray the occasional sample onto oneself. Or passerby. If particular hot.

Both were startled to discover liking many of said scents. Particularly the citrus forward fragrances. Undoubtably worth half an hour.

A second highlight was Sisu, a welcome pause for cake and coffee. The cake, homemade, was magnificent. A return a necessity if we hadn’t moved on.

Our final stop was the Tipsy Monk, a Delirium Cafe. Thirty taps of German, Belgian and UK beer treats. Beware if chosen tipple a stronger ale, no thirds available. Large and lovely inside, no outdoor seating we could see. Probably the reason place was near empty on our arrival.

The few surrounding streets (Salzgsss, Buttermark) reminiscent perhaps of earlier centuries. Atmospheric and worth a stroll even if beer isn’t your cup of La Trappe Dubbel.

Cologne Thoughts

If I’m honest Cologne was, unusually for a German city, disappointing. Standout sights include the cathedral, Hohenzollern Bridge and, my favourite, Rheinauhafen. And it’s certainly not grim or dangerous.

Impressions are of an underdeveloped and undervalued city. Perhaps someone important decided the cathedral was enough.

Nevertheless, if a spare day you find, I’d encourage all to afford the city a chance.

BERLIN

Arrival, Hackesche Höfe District

Late the following morning found us on an ICE train to Berlin. A 5 hour trip. A brief panic when our TF app showed no inclination to open denying access to our tickets. Mercifully, a very helpful chap at the station helpdesk, printed out a copy.

As with many a train journey the vistas consisted of various sized urbanisations, farmland and countryside. Agreeable in the main if not necessarily spectacular.

Quick shout out to our ICE train. Not quite Eurostar chic though perfectly pleasant. Reached speeds of 150 mph. Couldn’t tell. Sanitiser provided in the toilets. Classy. And we were in coach 31. Short platforms beware.

Berlin Train Station resembles a sci fi movie set. Multiple floors, multiple food outlets, people multitudes. Quite magnificent.

Unfortunately the whole sci fi analogy crumbles on entering the Berlin Metro. No tap in, tap out. We had to buy paper tickets and validate on entering and leaving the system. Seriously? This appears to be a common theme across German cities. I don’t doubt better options are available to residents but, certainly to us, appeared rather antiquated.

Alexanderplatz, location of our hotel, and once part of East Berlin, is a huge, sprawling square housing 2 of Berlin’s most iconic structures – the Weltzeituhr (368 metre TV tower) and Weltzeituhr (world time clock). Ironically, both were designed and constructed to celebrate soviet supremacy.

Surrounded now by modern office blocks, a large shopping mall, restaurants and bars, both may be feeling a little confused. Alexanderplatz is also a major transport hub (ideal for tourists) and the core of modern East Berlin.

Checked into hotel before strolling to the Hackesche Höfe district.

With its generous sprinkling of Art Nouveau architecture, upmarket consumer consumerism, all manner of interesting bars and restaurants, it’s rather charming. Even those establishments trying for gritty and real. The original Jewish quarter was especially attractive.

Once foddered, we meandered the 15 minutes to Mikkeller Berlin. Though increasingly residential, the character of the district remained remarkably similar.

Twenty four taps, predominantly their own, inside and outside bottom perching. Sus grabbed bench space outside overlooking an agreeable thoroughfare. Sipped, people ogled, struck up a conversation with a delightful Brazilian couple living in Germany.

A delightfully charming evening.

BERLIN II – Oranienburger, Friedrichshain District

Slept long, breakfasted long, emerged from our hotel a little before 11 am.

Sus fancied the David Hasselhoff Museum. I didn’t. I lost.

Located a few minutes beyond the Mikkeller bar and housed in what appeared to be an upscale hostel with its own brewery. Apparently, hostels are not immune to gentrification.

Mercifully, the ‘exhibition’ was tiny in a space no larger than a en-suite commode. Couple of signed photos were the ‘highlight’. Free. Thankfully.

An engineered (Sus, obviously) meander via the charming and delightful, predominately residential, Oranienburger district brought us to the thoroughfare that is Unter den Linden. Sober, or otherwise, I struggled not to rename the street after a deceased Middle Eastern terrorist.

The Brandenburg Gate sits on Unter den Linden. Unfortunately, or at least the section we wandered, was deeply disappointing. Glance at the Brandenburg Gate, explore elsewhere. We did.

Jumped on the metro, alighted at Frankfurter Tor, for the Friedrichshain District. This mundane residential district, albeit boasting a splattering of Art Nouveau architecture, has somewhat and miraculously morphed.

Independent shops, restaurants and bars dominate. Gentrification has arrived. Nearer the river, a light industrial estate, has cleverly transitioned into galleries, bars and techno clubs. And graffiti. Lots of graffiti.

One group of long, long ago retirees were exploring (slowly) this once industrial landscape. Gentrification. Literally.

And we loved it. I hope you do too.

We continued our quest to see the Spree. A river not shopping mall.

Once discovered (and conquered, obviously) we crossed the mock medieval Oberbaum Bridge into the district of Kreuzberg.

Not dissimilar to Friedrichshain, with that same mixture of surprisingly attractive Soviet era blocks and Art Nouveau, though perhaps a smidgen more upmarket.

More metro madness – actually rather ordinary, just wanted the alliteration – to Kottbusser Tor. Basically a more Holloway, less Mayfair snippet of Kreuzberg.

The reason, Biererei Bar and Vintage Cellar. Obviously.

Indoor, outdoor plonking places, 24 taps of quality ales (German, UK, USA). Lovely. The cellar, in reality a cooled, glass enclosed room, stocked some fabulous beers. Unfortunately, prices are equally fabulous.

Both have previously visited Berlin. Both a couple of times. With tourist attractions long since ticked off an opportunity beckoned to better explore East Berlin.

Yes, gentrification is endemic certainly in districts we visited. As with other cities, where gentrification has taken hold, we believe, and hope, it offers more than it takes. I suspect most would to prefer to live in the new Friedrichshain than the old. Unless you’re buying a house of course.

And, for those searching for grittiness, realism, it’s still all here. Just packed a little differently.

Berlin is a proper city, an easy city to live in. We’re dedicated urbanites and loved it.

WARSAW

A new country for Sus, a new city for both. Relaxed breakfast before Berlin Hauptbahnhof and platform 11. Another 5 hour train journey.

Podcasts, music, window watching, blog binges all helped time dissipate quickly. Noise cancelling headphones blocked out undesirables. Aren’t they fab? Both recently invested in a pair of Sony noise cancelling, over ear headphones.

The train, or at least our carriage, had compartments each with 6 seats. Brought memories of travelling to and from SE London into the city many years ago. Nevertheless, clean, air conditioning and reasonably comfortable. And we had one of those 6 seats compartments to ourselves.

Arrived, dragged suitcases the short distance to our hotel, checked in. And, did our usual, quickly departing to explore.

We were half heartedly aiming for old town. That lack of commitment doomed us to failure. Nevertheless, we meandered down the elegant Wilcza lined with boutique shops, restaurants and bars. And trees.

Architecturally resembling East Berlin with that odd but effective mix of soviet era blocks and Art Nouveau loveliness. More tree lined goodness in the shape of the boulevardesque Marszalkowska and completed our sojourn on the Wilcza resembling Poznańska.

Spellcheck is losing the will to live.

Sus, quite deliberately, had brought us to Warsaw’s Central Square bordering, on one side, the modern train station. From which we’d emerged a couple of hours earlier. Events are obviously staged here – one now forgotten something was in its dismantling death throes.

A collection of Romanesque buildings, plus a magnificent beast seemingly paying homage to New York’s iconic Empire State Building, host galleries, museums and a theatre.

This striking architectural collection was constructed in the 1950s by Poland’s Russian overseers. Odd, perhaps telling, the architect mimicked such an iconic American building. And handsome to you and us perhaps, these structures are a symbol of Soviet repression and disliked by many residents.

Modern skyscrapers, some quite striking, dominate the skyline. For those not on foot, Warszawa Śródmieście (city centre) metro station, delivers tourists and locals into the centre of said square.

With the weather misbehaving a return to our hotel felt opportune.

Warsaw – The Old Bits

Post brekkie, via tourist information, a cold wind and occasional rain, we bravely braved the walk to the old town. Between 20 and 30 minutes, depending on route and coffee and cake intake, from the central train station.

We actually landed on the ‘Royal Route’. Which, rather conveniently, wanders into the old town. The Royal Route dates back to the 17 and 18th centuries, the old town itself from the late medieval period.

Tragically, the Nazis, partly in an act of spite, destroyed 85% of this historical architecture. Inhabitants, supported by the country as a whole, meticulously rebuilt the historical centre, beginning from 1945, and over several years.

And, as with Nuremberg, the decision to do so was an undoubted success. Yes, many of the buildings appear newer than they should, nevertheless, there is a welcome level of authenticity.

Unlike Dubrovnik. Disneyland on a stick. With cruise ships.

Meandered contentedly for 2-3 hours before returning, by bus, to the central station. A short stroll brought us to Beer and Bones. Heavy metal and craft beer. That works. Was a big metal fan in my youth and, though my tastes have broadened, still love the rasp and shriek of a guitar.

Twenty four taps of almost exclusively Polish beer from lager to lethal IPAs and sours. Again, be warned, 300ml is the smallest pour. Interior is as expected (neither pink, nor Disney inspired cushions adorned) with numerous seating options. Limited outdoor seating complements indoor space.

Rested, showered before meeting a Polish colleague of Sus’s, and his wife, for dinner. And a delightful evening it was to prove.

Warsaw – Praga and Lazienki Park

So delightful we slept in to well after 9am. After breakfast headed to Praga, an artsy district of Warsaw.

The M2 metro, alighting at Dworzec Wilénski brings one close. Head to Ząbkowska Street or Stalowa Street.

And may I point you towards Konesar. A former 19th century former vodka distillery, with many of the original booze buildings surviving. Enhanced with modern, and rather handsome buildings, the complex hosts galleries, museums, shopping, bars and restaurants. It’s most impressive.

Less impressive, perhaps, is Ząbkowska Street. Towards one end mildly trendy bars and restaurants have sprung up but the rest of the street is a tad nondescript.

A 162 bus safely delivered us to Lazienki Park. Alight at Agrykola. Lazienki Park is large, green with numerous follies and one palace. Water is strategically plonked.

Meandering proved a pleasing way to spend a couple of hours. Or more.

Warsaw has, from our limited experience, a comprehensive, cheap and effective public transport system There’s no tap on, tap off but ticketing machines at train and metro stations are straightforward to use.

Similarly bus tickets though you may have to pay using onboard ticket machines. Not all bus stops have machines. We bought per journey though better value options, for public transport lovers, are doubtless available.

Tomorrow, is 7 hour train journey day. Earlyish start so treated ourselves to take out pizza, beer and laundry. We know how to mix it up.

Warsaw, or the bits glimpsed, genuinely surprised us. Neither, initially undoubtedly, knew what to expect from this once soviet suppressed city.

Those expecting grim tower blocks, cars from previous eras and bread queues will be genuinely surprised. Or disappointed. Depending on your outlook. Warsaw is an ultra modern, attractive city, striving to lose any vestiges of soviet oppression. It’s working.

One very much feels Warsaw (and presumably Poland) is striving to rid itself of any vestige of Soviet repression and move closer, certainly with the current government, to its European neighbours.

I wish it every success.

VILNIUS

Up, breakfasted, checked out by 8.15. Again in compartments of 6 though conventional carriages existed. Odd.

Initially started our journey in adjacent compartments until a kind, English speaking lady, offered Sus seat opposite me. Their eldest daughter – they were a family of 5 – had a job interview and unable to come.

One small fact I hadn’t been aware of, until Sus pointed it out, was a train change at the border. About 5 hours into the 7. Differing track gauges, apparently. It actually decoupled twice with one change of direction whilst still in Poland.

Vistas again comprised of variably sized urbanisations, farmland (mainly arable) and wooded slopes. An attractive threesome.

Lithuania appeared similar, not surprisingly. Borders are a human thing, not a tree thing. There was perhaps more woodland, less farmland with the larger urbanisations retaining greater remnants of their Russian subjugation.

And both noticed second (third? Fourth?) growth trees. Many were, presumably, fast growing conifers. Apparently, Lithuania has a strong tradition chopping down trees, flogging trees, replanting trees. Logging.

A short bus ride – tap in enabled – followed by a short walk brought us to our fourth temporary home of the trip.

Checked in, yep straight out. Discovered Baltas Tiltas Food Hall. Along with much of Vilnius. Indoor/outdoor seating, bar plus several food outlets. Greenery and river nearby. Food passable, value decent.

Post fodder, calorie depleting stroll. It started to rain. Obviously.

Strolled around modern district, purchased chocolate, headed back to hotel. Rain had mutated from irritating to just wet.

Vilnius – Seven and a Half Mile Day

Post a most palatable breakfast departed hotel to explore the city.

Unlike Warsaw Vilnius old town has been, mercifully, well preserved. UNESCO recognises as a World Heritage Site.

Multiple invaders inevitably caused partial destruction of the city. Nevertheless, Baroque, Gothic, Renaissance and classical architecture all survived. Hoorah.

We meandered here, we meandered there. A vague plan, oft deviated. Seven and a half miles of oft deviating.

Vilnius does churches. If churches are your cup of ecclesiastical, Baroque your cup of architecture, you may never leave. St Anne’s and Bernadine Churches are amongst the most beautiful.

Secular treats include the Bernadine Garden, Vilnius University, Palace of Grand Dukes, Presidential Palace, Town Hall and the evocatively named Gates of Dawn.

Wandered into the Presidential Palace Courtyard, an agreeable space in its own right. And a captivating dancing fountain. Pop by, say hello.

The self proclaimed Republic of Užupis is a mildly bohemian oddity and worth the short detour. Though a Vilnius district, Užupis leaves the impression of a small, well to do market town.

Litaratų Street is also mentioned in many a guide. We took a stroll down and not sure why. Remarkably similar to numerous other streets.

A relatively, benign climb brings one to The Bastian of the Defense. Constructed in the 16th century, it’s since been fully restored. The afore mentioned Gates of Dawn are the only original surviving section. The walls are visible though a museum, not visited by us, does greater justice to the history of said Bastian.

Additionally, the neighbourhood boasts a convent, pink church and expensive looking apartments.

Gediminas Tower, easily visible from the old town, is the last remnant of Vilnius’ Medieval Castle. We declined the climb.

Four pm arrived. Thankfully, so did Nisha Craft Capital. Indoor/outdoor seating, rock music, 22 taps plus fridges. Perfect.

Trakai – A castle, a lake and rain

Breakfast, bus back to the train station. This time without suitcases. That’s tomorrow.

Today it’s Lake Galvé and Trakai Castle. Today was also torrential torrent day. Trees and porches became our friends. Ducks wore ponchos.

Train journey is 35 mins, then a relaxed 45 minute stroll around Lake Galvé.

The final short stretch takes castle hunters away from the lake and into the attractive, predominantly clapboard village of Trakai. Signposted back onto the lake where stalls, restaurants and cafes await. None appealed. Many wares were landfill in waiting.

Two bridges separate tourists from the island Trakai Castle lives on. A 14th century, gothic fortress. Unfortunately falling into ruin in the 17th century the castle has since been reconstructed.

And it shows. And only having recently toured Nuremberg’s reconstructed castle Trakai Castle didn’t appeal. The €14 entrance, though understandable, sealed the castle’s fate.

Strolled around the castle returning to Trakai village and Kyby Nlar. Surrounded by a Japanese tour group (today Lithuania, tomorrow France) ordered coffee and Kibinai. Both excellent.

The kibinai is remarkably similar to the empanada which is remarkably similar to a Cornish pasty. Evolution or plagiarism?

One oddity was a large, again reconstructed, wall, adorned with small defensive towers, enclosing a several football pitches sized area. Though located between Trakai village and the lake we saw no signposting, information boards or otherwise explaining what had appeared in front of us.

Bizarre.

Anyway, Lake Galvé is glorious, Trakai village fascinating, Trakai Castle more miss than hit.

We’d caught the 11.36 train returning on the 16.10 train. Specific trains need to be chosen before travel. As mentioned, the castle wasn’t our cup of reconstruction.

However, if it is, I suspect the same trains will suffice. Cost, €6 return.

Once returned to Vilnius we opted to stroll the 25 minutes to a food hall spotted the previous afternoon. Closed. This being a Monday. Monday is the ideal day to traipse to a favourite restaurant or bar. Doors may not open until Tuesday.

Finally foddered, sipped some fine wine at PODS Wine bar. Worth a look if in mood for the fermented grape stuff.

Returned to hotel, packed, slept.

Vilnius Thoughts

Vilnius felt incredibly modern, young and efficient. And is undoubtably one of the cleanest cities ever visited. This, from my train widow watching, appeared to include the country as a whole. Love it.

Locals, though not especially ethically diverse, appear helpful and friendly. Both loved it, an easily recommendable 3 full days stopover for anyone.

RIGA

There’s only one daily train from Vilnius to Riga. It leaves as 7.30am. Never going to happen.

Alternatively, coaches leave throughout the day taking about half an hour longer (4.45 hours). Line up that leisurely breakfast.

We booked (ok, Sus did) a LUX express taking, in theory, four and a quarter hours. Only a smidgen longer than the train. Similarly priced at €25 though cheaper coach options are available. We chose an express service, only stopping once with a little more luxury. And I mean a little more.

Vilnius train station is modern, clean with a small variety of eateries. The coach station – visible from train station – feels like a throwback to an earlier era.

I rarely travel by coach though always remember Victoria Coach Station seemingly scruffier than its train counterpart. Is this universal or only my perception? Are coach stations, railways stations’ poorer cousins?

Our route out of Vilnius drove through attractive neighbourhoods. One small district consisted of 18th and 19th century wooden houses. Riga would have similar such buildings.

Arrived slightly early into Riga bus station. We were never to set foot, or any other part of our

body, into Riga central train station, so my research will need to be continued elsewhere. Now, that’s a cliffhanger.

Walked to our hotel, checked in, left for Old Town (Vecrīga) exploration. Another UNESCO World Heritage site.

The cobbled streets and medieval layout have largely survived wars and Russian occupation. Unfortunately, much of the medieval centre succumbed to time and the vagaries of humankind and underwent extensive reconstruction post-independence.

Nevertheless, medieval remnants do still survive – The ‘Three Brothers’ houses, Riga Dome, Gunpowder Tower and Riga Castle.

Tragically, late, late night bars, vape and tacky souvenir shops dominate parts of the old town. Nearby restaurants, offering similarly touristy menus, do nothing to inspire. It’s somewhat incongruous. Beautiful buildings, from throughout the ages, garishly vying for your money.

Or, perhaps, just a return to their origin story.

Whatever, it’s a tad grim. Unless 50 shots for €25 is your cup of evening entertainment. Stag and hen groups may, however, be wooed.

A second ring beyond the old town showcases 18th and 19th century elegance. Miraculously, a sprinkling of wooden houses survive alongside numerous art nouveau structures.

A large park prettily sits beyond this elegance offering tranquillity and green vibes.

We ate (vegan) in an agreeable neighbourhood the other side of the park before retiring to our hotel.

Riga – Art Nouveau and Central Market

Both emerged from the land of slumber unexpectedly late. Breakfast, showers, left the hotel about midday. We returned 9 hours and 8 and a half miles later.

Much of Riga, outside the old town, showcases late nineteenth and early twentieth century elegance with Elizabetes Iela and Alberta Iela the pinnacle of Riga’s Art Nouveau architecture.

I actually prefer the simplicity of Art Deco but there’s no denying the gorgeousness of these 2 small streets.

Accidentally discovered Dzirnavu Iela, an attractive main thoroughfare. Unlike old town, tempting eateries are commonplace. Aleksandra Čaka Iela, more main thoroughfare pleasantness, herded us agreeably to old town.

Average coffee and cake prior to Riga’s huge central market (Rīgas Centrāltirgus). Five pavilions (imaginatively repurposed 1920s Zeppelin Hangers) house fresh produce including meat, fruit, vegetables and fish.

Ubiquitous landfill wares are also available.

In case you’re struggling to find that perfect gift/ingredient there’s an outdoor market. Fresh flowers (popular in Latvia), fruit and vegetables dominate. Numerous food stalls dominate one half of one hanger offering local delicacies to hungry tourists and locals alike. Dinner sorted. Twice.

Neither can remember a larger market. Wikipedia also appears to be struggling.

Ms&Mr Beer was our beer destination of choice. Though small inside, it’s marvellously imaginative. Outside seating is additionally available.

Eight taps and numerous bottles handily listed on a menu. Rock music on repeat. Lamentably, the beer was a bit rubbish. Sus, discretely (ish), poured a quarter of hers into the road. Never a recommendation.

Little point in staying – the bottles and cans were of a similar quality (I checked) – and so we didn’t.

Walked to BEERA Bar. Twelve taps, fridges full of beer. A huge improvement. We stayed.

Riga – Chum Gary

Post brekkie, a stroll across the Daugava River, at least twice the width of the Thames.

After mild map confusion we found ourselves in the Kalnciema Quarter. Agreeable, mildly upmarket with restored and, hopefully, soon to be restored wooden/clapboard buildings.

One map app finally directed us to the small square we’d been seeking. Pleasant, but suspiciously quiet. No market, no live music. That would be later. About 5 hours later. Didn’t hang around.

Kalnciema sported a middle income ambience. Agreeable if not spectacular.

Rested briefly before heading to Āgenskalns, another obscure website, recommended neighbourhood. We genuinely had no idea what to expect. Nevertheless, agreeably surprised. Not a market, not another overly ornate building. But a small neighbourhood of predominantly late 19th, early 20th century wooden/clapboard dwellings.

Many had obviously been restored, others were in the process of restoration, a few awaiting benevolent new owners. Shared a commune vibe but really wasn’t. A community yes, a commune no. If a day to many booked in Riga, Āgenskalns would be a worthy diversion.

Victory Park, a ridiculously short stroll from the ‘not a commune’, offers lush tranquility.

Another ornate bridge – Riga has a number – brought a short respite back at the hotel.

A return to Central Market to eat and meet chum Gary. Frustratingly, Gary doesn’t own a smartphone so only caught up with him at BEERA Bar a couple of hours later. With the kind help and intervention of one of Sus’s bestest chums.

Jurmala Beach and Dzintari Forest Park

On checking in the lovely receptionist suggested, as an excursion, Jurmala Beach. Three days later we confirmed details with a second lovely receptionist. She suggested a small deviation. She suggested alighting train at Dzintari, one station stop before Majori, the stop for Jurmala Beach.

Genius.

Train station, return tickets (no need to specify return train) easily purchased from ticket desk, train departed quickly thereafter.

Cost? A meagre €10 for both. Journey time, half an hour.

Dzintari Forest Park offers towering pines, a skateboard park and a seemingly non ending Tarzan (rope) adventure park. Clean toilets (sampled), a café (not sampled) with further attractions speckle the park. Additionally, a viewing tower exists within the park. Unfortunately, we never viewed said viewing tower.

For a relatively small space Dzintari Forest Park is genuinely remarkable. A fabulous resource for children, and to a lesser degree, their parents. Dzintari appears to be a wealthy area. Such a resource is unlike to appear in lower income city districts. Which is a shame.

A stroll down Jūras iela for a consumerism hit, predominantly restaurants and shops.

In fairness, it’s all rather agreeable. A wide, pedestrian thoroughfare bordered by handsome late 18th, early 19th century architecture. A fair proportion, wooden or clapboard.

Onwards to the beach. Another surprise. There’s a huge expanse of sand, a well behaved sea and multiple toilets and changing type cubicles.

Greenery skirts the edge of the beach, bars and restaurants are present but never overwhelm. We paddled in the Baltic (yep, cold) though a few hardy souls were somewhat braver. The water remains shallow a remarkably long way out.

Now, neither are beach people, preferring to swim than sunbathe. Nevertheless, this was as fine a beach as either have kicked sand. It could make a fantastic base, especially if children are part of your retinue, with Riga only half an hour away.

Jomas iela, running parallel to Jūras iela, showcases further late 18th, early 19th century architecture. Again much of which is wooden or clapboard. We zig zagged between the two to better get a sense of the neighbourhood. It’s strikingly elegant. Occasionally gorgeous.

By now, nearer Majori Train Station than Dzintari. Both in the same zone (B) so no issue jumping on a train there.

We adored this area and probably spent best part of 4 hours exploring. And a wonderful 4 hours it was. Made the old town look very ordinary.

Brief hotel stop before popping back out for a couple of vinos. A return to hotel to pack, shower, chill. Reasonably early start the next morning.

Riga Thoughts

The old town is compact and quickly explored. It has charm somewhat ruined by a get pissed, eat crap and vape to we die vibe. Now, for those considerably younger, the old town may well be Valhalla. It had that feel. And who am I to disagree.

Nevertheless, Riga, for us, came into its own outside of the old town. Elegant architecture, bustling streets populated by appealing shops, bars and restaurants. Greenery abounds. Riga has a certain air of sophistication once removed from the old town.

And Riga, as with Vilnius, appears to be exceptionally well kept. Litter was rare, fly tipping non-existent.

And please do create a few free hours for Jurmala Beach, Dzintari and Majori. You will no t be disappointed.

FINAL THOUGHTS

What a tremendous mode of transport train travel is. Obviously, trains have formed an integral element of many of a foreign climes excursions. Though, perhaps never to the same extent.

TF sorting trains and hotels was an undoubted success. Self booking is undoubtably doable, and perhaps cheaper, though can be somewhat daunting. We would not hesitate to use TF again in similar circumstances.

Train travel, especially on those lengthier journeys, offers a unique opportunity to relax, decouple (get it?) from the many problems of the world. Listen to podcasts, music, read a book or, controversially, chat with your companion. And as, a country not your own, flows conveniently past.

We loved the whole experience. And are planning a longer trip in the next couple of years.

HOME

We sacrificed a very early flight into Gatwick for a later flight into Heathrow. Idea was great, the stopover in Helsinki’s impressive airport made it less so.

Arrived home a little before 6pm with the following day (Sunday) enabling a little recuperation before real life resumed.

Perfect.

Thanks for reading, Tony (July 2026)

NUREMBERG, BAMBERG, REGENSBURG

Our Ealing home to clearing Heathrow Terminal 2 security, one hour. Probably a record. And the reason we favour the Elizabeth Line and Heathrow for our jolly jaunts.

A robotic cleaner – with a sex upped name – was causing some amusement and curiosity. This clever, and surprisingly cute, machine asked travellers to clear its path in order to complete its cleansing duties. Initially politely. Reasonably sure I heard frustration creep in.

Direct flights from Heathrow to London only operate for the Christmas markets period. Outside of these consumer binges 2 flights are needed. Into Frankfurt, out of Frankfurt. The actual flights were both short and painless. The in between bits, less so. One runway taxi reminiscent of an M25 traffic jam.

Once landed, disgorged and happily reunited with one’s bag, we jumped on the U2, a cog on Nuremberg’s small but seemingly efficient metro system. To be fair, I only tested it once more. The return journey to the airport. Probably not a representative sample.

NUREMBERG – ARRIVAL

Our temporary home were the Brunnen Apartments. Central, comfortable complete. Equipped with a small but very serviceable kitchen. Invaluable for a week long stay. Check them out.

Once in, we were out. Our local ‘hood offered numerous tempting food haunts, many Korean or Japanese. Plus, my favourite, supermarkets. Two within a 5 minute walk.

No set agenda, meandered, toying with the old down. And discovered Bierwerk.

Sat outside and sipped a decent lager. Characterful inside, perhaps 10 taps mainly local lagers and beer. Fair enough. Bottles and cans available, showcasing a greater variety. Food also available. Worth a stroll, if not necessarily a hop head destination.

It was early evening, we were knackered. Back to the hotel, slept 10 hours.

Brief History

Nestled in Bavaria, Nuremberg Kaiserburg (castle) first appeared in the 11^th century. Constructed, not as an apparition. Both Free Imperial City status was granted and city walls were erected in the 13th century. Probably not a coincidence. Growing economic power, wealth and, presumably, taxes inevitably followed.

The 13 and 14^th centuries saw the construction of gothic masterpieces such as St. Lawrence Church (1298), Frauenkirche (1361) and the Luginsland Tower (begun 1377).

In the 15 and 16^th trade booms, wealth accumulates, city walls reinforced (wise). Nuremberg, centrally located, has become a European trade hub.

Early in the 19^th century Nuremberg loses its Free Imperial City Status as Bavaria goes all ‘Borg’ and assimilates the city.

Ironically, parts of the original city walls are destroyed in the 18^th century to allow expansion – sounds vaguely familiar.

Nuremberg, in the 19^th century, witnessed a revival of interest in medieval art and architecture, leading to restoration of the castle. Many of the still surviving neoclassical building flourish during this period. Paradoxically, perhaps, Nuremberg also becomes a major industrial centre for mechanical engineering and electrical equipment.

NUREMBERG PROPER

Suffice to say, this wasn’t our earliest start.

Sus Christmas marketed Nuremberg a few years ago. It’s is a tad warmer. As I write, just shy of 30 degrees.

I’ve dallied with visiting both Nuremberg and Bamberg for too long. With chum Mike. For the beer. Bamberg, in particular, is a renown centre for German beer production. Numerous brewpubs dot the city. A tad ironically, a recent and fascinating employment jaunt within the wine industry delayed my beery Nuremberg plans. Beer is in a few days, now is for tourist.

As many will know, Nuremberg was tragically bombed, for the people who live here and the architecture they populated, by the allies during WW2. War, that’s a great idea.

The old town has been restored to its medieval glory – 90% of the old town perished. The merits of which can be argued. It generates tourist pounds, dollars, euros. Perhaps even creating a more favourable environment in which to live. Certainly beats 70s tower blocks. Done that, didn’t work.

After some searching we found Kettensteg (The Old Chain Bridge), constructed in 1824 and the oldest European example of its kind.

Riverside vistas, the Pegnitz river is a constant and welcome companion, birdlife and the odd fish all add extra adorability. A remarkable transformation considering the river was once heavy polluted due to waterside industries.

The Thames has undergone a similar transformation and now considered one of the cleanest metropolitan rivers in the world. Don’t be deceived by its murky appearance. Remarkedly, 100 plus fish species now call the Thames home.

Further directional confusion brought us to Weißgerbergasse (Tanner Lane). With its half timbered houses, cobbled street many consider Weißgerbergasse Nuremberg’s most iconic street. Built on the wealth of Nuremberg’s medieval leather industry Weißgerbergasse now hosts cafes, bars and restaurants.

At the top of Weißgerbergasse is St Sebald’s Church. Constructed in the 13th century in the must have Romanesque style and supplemented in further centuries. Including the always popular 17th century Baroque. It suffered serious damage during WW2 and, like much of what we saw, has since been reconstructed.

Sebald, the man, actually financed St Sebald’s and, literally, helped to build it. Buried there too. Must have loved that church. Popped in. Popped out. Worth a glance.

There are no Cathedrals in Nuremberg. Likely due to the embrace of Protestantism. Over time most Nuremberg Catholic churches have been converted to Nuremberg Protestant churches.

Nuremberg Altes Rathaus (town hall) was again built in the 14th century including a great gothic ceremonial hall. Again it was smashed to smithereens. Again it was painstakingly rebuilt post WW2.

Next up, Platz am Tiergärtnertor, a straight run from Altes Rathaus. An attractive square with classic medieval (reconstructed) architecture. The square is a popular place to enjoy a beverage or two and lively later on.

One oddity is Das Hase, a tribute on an Albrecht Dürer picture of a young hare. Not something you would wish queueing behind you at Tescos. And hidden by the larger tree on left of photo. Some would say a positive.

Abrecht was born, lived and died in Nuremberg and is one of their most famous sons. It’s possible to visit the house he once lived in, one of the few surviving burgher houses from Nuremberg’s golden age. Now a museum.

There’s also tours of the WW2 art bunker where Nuremberg, sensibly, stored many of its art treasures during the allied bombing.

The Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) looms large directly above Platz am Tiergärtnertor. It’s a castle with baggage. Fascinating baggage. It has links to the Holy Roman Empires, assorted kings and the Nazis.

Kaiserburg dates back 1,000 years. Trashed in the 15th century, rebuilt in the 19th century, trashed (yep, WW2) and rebuilt in the 20^th century. Remarkably some Romanesque and gothic elements survived. You’re able to wander the large courtyard for free. Which we did. Payment grants access to inner rooms. Which we didn’t. Another time.

Nuremberg was Hitlers favourite city. Not a ringing endorsement. He felt it was the most German of German cities. Hence the rallies. Hence the bombing. Hence the Nuremberg Trials. The latter to crush any symbolism Nuremberg might hold.

We toddled into Bierothek, a craft beer take out place only. Both traditional and not so traditional ales though no refrigeration. Worth a look.

Completed our Nuremberg exploration in a supermarket. Where else. Returned to hotel, rested before a short wander to Aztoria Wine.

Then another supermarket, a sausage sandwich for me, something healthy for Sus.

Large windows in our hotel opened affording a snoopers view of the pedestrian, shopping street one floor below – Breitegasse. A street for posturing, preening, chatting, sitting, watching. A place for teenagers, those from a decade later, friends and families. A wonderful spectacle. A human safari.

We ate, people watched, watched people, people watch. No one looked up. They rarely do. A regular morning and evening ritual.

BAMBERG

Brief History

Bamberg was largely spared the allied bombers as strategically irrelevant to the war effort. There’s an insult in there somewhere. UNESCO, those cheeky cultural curators, have awarded Bamberg World Heritage Site status. Deservedly. It has over 1,300 listed buildings.

Bamberg, nestled in Bavaria, was first gossiped about in 902. A fort had been built exiting locals. Yesterday’s fort, today’s Cathedral Hill. Domplatz.

A century later (1007) Bamberg rose to prominence when Emperor Henry II established a bishopric. This transformed Bamberg into a spiritual and political hub of the Holy Roman Empire. Nicely played Bamberg.

By the 12th century the town had developed and flourished economically, architecturally and culturally. Its bishops becoming imperial princes in the 13th century, further cementing power and influence.

The 17^th and 18^th centuries again brought benefits to Bamberg. And though remaining Catholic throughout the Reformation Bamberg embraced the Enlightenment attracting original thinkers of the time. Baroque architecture flourished.

With its loss of ecclesiastical independence in 1802 Bamberg was indecently quickly consumed into Bavaria. Yummy.

Nevertheless, the 19^th century witnessed population growth and canal and railway expansion leading to improved trade and connectivity. And greater prosperity.

We were on a train to Bamberg by 10am. As we’re most of Nuremberg. Dressed in traditional lederhosen. Most supping on an ale. Probably not their first. It would shock a hardened footy fan travelling to an away game.

I asked a lovely chap why. Apparently, a beer crawl across various cellar based drinking establishments in Erlangen. The train emptied at Erlangen. Some may not make it back. Possibly not out of the station.

The journey, around 45 minutes, was straightforward. The journey pretty in parts, non-descript in others. No airport exists in Bamberg, Nuremberg is the closest airport and city.

The ‘Bayern’ ticket, on advice the helpful Hapbahnhof staff, cost €25 for both, for 2 days. Unlimited travel within the Bayern environs. Bargain.

Our initial plan was to discover Maximilianplatz. This largely 18th century square, with the 19th century Maximilians Fountain centrepiece, is Bamberg’s largest and most significant. It appeared to be an ideal place to start.

Didn’t happen.

An unintentional detour deposited us in an agreeably local neighbourhood. A local cafe provided coffee and cake. We sat outside, watched local traffic, watching us, watching them. Buses wandered by at surprisingly regular intervals. Local bus services are alive and well and apparently living happily in Bamberg.

Yet again missing the now mythical Maximilianplatz we discovered Domplatz. Where to start.

Domplatz – or Cathedral Square as it’s sometimes known – hosts some of the most significant structures in Germany let alone Bamberg. It’s cultural, historical and really, really quite splendid.

Bamberger Dom – Bamberg Cathedral – is perhaps the darling of the Square. Constructed in the 13th century in the Romanesque style with later Baroque additions. Due in part to fire. We did quickly visit, the sheer size is striking. Trouble is, it’s just another church.

Neue Residenz, adjacent to Bamberger Dom, completed in the 17th century (hence the ‘new’) was home to the Prince Bishops of Bamberg until 1803. The rose garden is supposedly a highlight. It contains over 40 ornately magnificent rooms. Religion appears to have been replaced up extravagant living. I’m sure the poor would have approved.

Alte Hofhaltung, or old court, constructed in the 16th century replaced older constructs lost to fire or demolished. It also house those lucky Prince Bishops before relocating to Neue Residence.

Completed on 1733 the Diozesanmuzeum, next to the Cathedral, was once a Jesuit College. It now houses a vast collection ecclesiastical art spanning several centuries including relics and manuscripts.

Some buildings are possible to visit. We didn’t as not our cup of ecclesiastical. However, if your cup of ecclesiastical, the museum will be deserving of your time.

From Domplatz, towards Kloster Michaelsberg, one might find oneself visiting the 1,000 year old Jacobskirche. Bit of a survivor this one. Renovated in the 13th century, sighted for demolition during Bamberg’s secularisation, it still welcomes visitors and worshippers to this day.

Kloster Michaelsberg (St Michael’s Abbey) is, inevitably, a bit of a climb. Located on one of the 7 hills of Bamberg. The temperature was hovering at a skin frying 30 degrees Celsius. Those monks were a selfish bunch.

It was undergoing renovation on our visit – a wedding held in the brewery must have wrangled a good deal. The monastery dates back to 1015 with the 12th century St Michael’s Church a particular highlight. Later Baroque buildings, including afore mentioned brewery, add to the architectural ambience. Though unable to enter, and with scaffolding inconveniently positioned, its magnificence is not diminished.

Ambling down, desperately seeking shade, we spotted a stork nesting on a small tower of a large residence. Its mate was flying gracefully above and soon to join its wife/husband. The nest was the largest I’ve seen. The storks huge, beautiful with a hint of dinosaur. We even spotted beaks of the young being fed. An absolute privilege. Thanks guys.

From storks to early medieval fabulousness. Bamberg Old Town. As smooth a segway as you’ll ever see.

Bamberg Altstadt is an architectural gothic mediaeval, masterpiece. With Baroque embellishments. Fairytale half-timbered houses, secular and ecclesiastical edifices all shouting ‘look at me’. There’s even the odd bit of Roman ruin. Remember to look up. This helps to negate the same old, same old restaurants, tourist tat shops and fast food joints. Classier shopping establishments also available.

One particular must see is the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). Constructed in the 14^th century and liberally coated in frescoes (very Baroque). It actually rests on an artificial island in the River Regnitz. That cheeky little sister of the River Pegnitz.

My advice is to just aimlessly wander. No set agenda. Just meander. Until you pass the Altes Rathaus for the third time. It’s that kind of place.

Brewpubs also dot the city. More on these cheeky chappies a couple of days on.

Finally Maximilianplatz. Oh dear, bit of a disappointment. It’s a large and attractive square – likeable even – but sadly lacks the character and personality of the rest of the town. If discovered first, perhaps with a market, we may have formed a more favourable view.

From Maximilianplatz we strolled back to the train station. It’s worth remembering Bamberg Altstadt is a 10-15 walk from said train station.

Bamberg is an absolute must see. A fabulous, fairytale masterpiece. And to any traditional German beer fan, this is mecca. The must see sights (Altstadt, Domplatz) can be seen in perhaps half a day. However, a couple of days would better do Bamberg justice.

REGENSBURG

Happened accidentally. And expensively. Our intention was to go to Furth, a mere 7 minutes away on our still valid ticket. And before you could say ‘wrong train’ we were moving.

It was an ICE service. A cross continent train. Cost us £30 one way. Each. On the plus side, it was quiet, comfortable and fast. And the toilets were nice. Though I never worked out how to lock them. As one poor chap discovered.

A kind hearted passenger agreed to purchase tickets and we pay him back in cash. The guard had asked for volunteers. It’s bizarre no facility for onboard payment was available. Either for tickets and/or fines. Presumably, tickets need to be pre-booked.

The calming vistas of rolling, wooded hills, farmland and pretty villages soothed away the financial pain. Sus was calmness personified. Once Regensburg came into view, chum guard made sure we knew. And quickly exited his train. We didn’t part friends.

Brief History

Regensburg was founded as a Roman fort called Castra Regina in 179 AD. The later medieval period was generous to the city. It became a significant medieval trading centre and Bavaria’s first capital.

In 1245 Regensburg achieved self-governance as a Free Imperial City. Go Regensburg.

From 1663 to 1806 Regensburg also served as the location of the Perpetual Imperial Diet effectively becoming the Empire’s political heart.

1810 saw Regensburg eaten by Bavaria. Bit of a muncher that Bavaria. Though damaged by a careless Napoleon Regensburg retained much of its medieval character and earned UNESCO World Heritage site status in 2006.

The rest is history.

Regensburg Rumble

As with Bamberg, strolling from the train station to the properly pretty parts takes between 10-15 minutes. The Old Stone Bridge, dating back to the 11^th century, is oldest preserved bridge in Germany. A medieval masterpiece. Quite beautiful.

The 12^th century, gothic St Peter’s Cathedral is a focal point of medieval Regensburg. We did have a peek. The 13/14^th century stained glass windows are especially memorable. Even if the message is less so. The roof is gothic gorgeous. A Gothic ribbed vault was an 15th century addition.

Unfortunately, the dosh ran out in the 16^th century and the twin towers were not actually completed until the 19^th century. Whoops.

Porta Praetoria is the remnant of Regensburg’s Roman gate. It’s been cleverly incorporated into a later building and easy to stroll nonchalantly past. I did. Sus spotted it. Perhaps a little underwhelming. Thankfully, Regensburg’s good bits are conveniently walkable, so equally simple to discover by chance. All hail serendipity.

The Altes Rathaus has both gothic and medieval elements. We actually explored a couple of the rooms that were open to the public. A more comprehensive tour is available.

The Historisches Museum Regensburg is housed in a 13^thcentury monastery. Those mischievous monasteries get everywhere. We didn’t partake. Nonetheless, with artifacts ranging from the stone age to the more modern, given the time we may well have.

It had started to rumble with thunder. Huge rain drops menacing tourists. We made a dash back to the station. Arrived dry, caught the next train back to Nuremberg.

A couple of confessions. I’m scribbling my Regenburg musings a couple of weeks after returning. Everywhere else, notes were taken at the time or soon after. And, before this streak of honesty moves on, we probably didn’t do Regensburg justice. For example, there’s Schloss St. Emmeram, Thurn und Taxis. A Rococo castle built atop a medieval monastery. Sounds like a cake. Which we neither ate or saw.

Regensburg is deserving of your time. A few hours is all you need. However, to properly acquaint oneself, make a day of it. This medieval town will thank you.

NUREMBERG – PROPER, PROPER

A slightly lazy start, 3 days of heat and wanderings had taken its toll.

We weaved down the more modern Köningstraße and more modern market – fresh produce, artisan nibbles and obligatory sausage stand. The Pegnitz gurgles happily to itself close by.

Narrenschiffbrunnen, or the less enticing ‘Ship of Fools’ Fountain, sits oddly on Köningstraße. It’s a modern sculpture based on a much older (1494) book of satires. Merits a glance.

We continued our weave down to Hauptmarkt of Christmas market fame.

Nuremberg was once 2 towns separated by one river. Naughty Pegnitz. Hauptmarket became the city centre of this particular universe when the 2 towns merged in the 13th century. As mentioned Nuremberg sat – and presumably hasn’t moved since – in the centre of Central Europe. And, during the medieval era, became a major trading hub. Location, location, location. The city even dabbled with the Silk Road.

Back in the 13^th century, the idiots that be (men) of the time needed the land for a new town market. The Jewish settlers had turned a swamp into a settlement. They were banished, about 600 were killed in a pogrom in one night. Or 10% of the then population.

Being the self-important men they believed themselves to be, this was easily justified. Isn’t it always. The fact the Jews had become the city’s main money lenders may also had a bearing. All debt was cancelled. And Frauenkirche, nearby, was constructed during the 14th century on the site of a demolished synagogue.

One of the most notable features of Frauenkirche is the Männleinlaufen, a mechanical clock celebrating the Golden Bull of 1356. Think Holy Roman Empire not an award for fibbing. A Imperial Diet was the deliberative body of the Holy Roman Empire. Power and prestige came to any city granted an Imperial Diet. Nurenberg was well chuffed.

Whilst admiring Frauenkirche – and waiting for the mechanical clock to put on a show – we spotted one of those popular free tours. We went over, asked if it was in English, it was, we joined.

We spent an enjoyable couple hours plus with latest chum, Martin. And a small ground of similar minded souls from various bits of the world. One lady had arrived from India only the previous evening.

Though much of the tour covered previous explorations, it added both history and useful context. Some I’ve since incorporated into this blog. It also introduced us to sights we’d missed or missed their significance.

A WW2 survivor is Schöner Brunnen a 14th century fountain living in Hauptmarkt. It translates to Beautiful Fountain. Subtle.

It’s modelled on a gothic spire dotted with statues of religious and town worthies. Tad presumptuous. Doubtless said worthies paid for the privilege. At 19 metres tall and brightly painted it’s easy to tick off. A gorgeous wrought iron fence was erected around the fountain, by a lovelorn local craftsman, in the 17th century. I’m rather fond of a bit of wrought iron. Preferred it to the statue.

The wonderfully named, single arched Fleishebrücke (meat bridge), was constructed in the 16th century. It’s rumoured to be modelled on the Rialto Bridge in Venice. It also miraculously survived the carnage of WW2.

This area sold meat, good, bad and quite possibly lethal. A small river island, visible from the bridge, was where the nasty stuff was sold off cheaply.

St Lorenzkirche (St Lawrence) church was begun in the 13th century, the magnificent west facade in the 14th century, the twin towers in the 15th century. The west façade survived WW2 as purposefully protected with concrete blocks. Much of the rest wasn’t so lucky.

We visited post tour. It possesses a strange juxtaposition of Catholic and Protestant (converted from the former to latter). It works. Genuinely one of the most striking church interiors we’ve seen. And we’ve seen a lot.

The 3 piece organ is one of the largest anywhere. And who wouldn’t want a 3 piece organ. A chap was rocking some tunes (in an ecclesiastical kind of way) for a short time during our visit.

Anyway, did some light supermarket shopping before heading back to hotel. Out again, meandering mainly down by the river, for a couple of hours.

Our evening routine. With wine.

SUS’S BIRTHDAY

Was the following day, 17 June. Actually still is as I write.

Relaxed morning before a climb back up to the castle. There have been many harder castle climbs over the years.

Martin, our guide from the day before, had suggested climbing the Sinwellturm Tower and checking out the castle well. He appeared less enthusiastic concerning the castle interior.

Accordingly, we bought tickets for the well and tower only. And timed it perfectly for a well talk. Never realised a chat and demonstration relating to a 14th century could be so fascinating. Shout out to the lady guide.

Sinwellturm Tower is, miraculously, another 14th century survivor. One does wonder how they missed. It is a bit of a clamber up via wooden stairs though the offered vistas are fabulous. However, the most poignant moments came from period photographs demonstrating before and after the allied bombing. Heartbreaking.

Four Euros gains access to both. Recommend splashing out.

The afternoon was spent in Achtzehn97, a wine bar in a Nuremberg suburb. Decent wine, interesting food, lovely staff.

Walked back to hotel and relaxed.

SUS GOES HOME, TONE GOES TO BEER FESTIVAL

Post Brekkie, we walked to the train station. Sus left for the airport, I returned to Bamberg to meet chum Mike.

His first time so strolled the old town, and returned to the glorious Domplatz. Bamberg is undoubtably suited to a second visitation. Me and Mike strolled streets me and Sus hadn’t. The waterside Fisherman’s Cottages were a particular delight. Time well spent reacquainting myself with this beautiful city.

Brewpubs next. First up, Schelenkerla for their famous smoked beer. Surprisingly good. Very good in fact. Cynically, my first thoughts were a gimmick. Tempt tourists in, sell them an average product so they could take photos (OK, we did) and boast to chums back home (yep, did that too). I was wrong. Yes there was a touristy element but plenty of locals too. And most importantly, the famous smoke beer lived up to the hype.

Same result at second brewpub, Klösterbrau Bamberg. Another cracking ale. Very local, very good.

Only half litre served in both establishments. No tasters, no thirds or no halves. Probably too many tourists asking too many questions.

Rushed back to the station, returned to Nuremberg for the Fränkisches Bierfest. Said beerfest is convivially convened in the Imperial Castle moat. A most splendid, perhaps even baronial, backdrop.

Supposedly, one of the longest beer festivals anywhere. According to chum Mike. Having strolled the length of it I’m inclined to agree. Traditional beer dominates. Supped a couple, agreeable without being distinctive. And, as with Bamberg, half a litre only serving size option.

Oddly, and a little awkwardly, a deposit was paid for a glass. But said glass needed to be returned to the same brewery for said deposit. Same again with each following brewery. Each style has its own unique glass. As did some breweries. Mike was reprimanded for daring to be different and used the wrong glass for the wrong beer. Naughty boy.

We sank a couple of beers before going separate ways. Mike was staying with family a little outside Nuremberg in Erlangen.

CORPUS CHRISTI DAY

This year, falls on the 19th June. Today. My trip for a healthy breakfast was somewhat curtailed as very little – less than even a Sunday – is open. Including supermarkets. Where my healthy breakfast resided.

As the day progressed, a greater number of bars and restaurants opened their doors. Supermarkets and hight street shops remained closed.

Meandered accidentally (really) into the red light district getting a couple of half hearted hellos from the ladies. Not sure who was more surprised, them or me. Sus and I had toyed with the edges of the red light district a few days earlier. Without realising. Nightclubs, bars and pole dancing joints. Not my cup of entertainment.

Beat a hastily and welcome retreat to the less seedy part of town. Explored a little more before heading back to hotel and scrape together breakfast.

More meandering, a bratwurst bap, before a second visit to the bierfest. Connected up with chum Mike around 2 pm. Plus new chum Gregor, a relative Mike was staying with. Top bloke and, helpfully, knew his way around the breweries.

We saw a few punters with considerably smaller steins. Perhaps half a pint. Gregor asked and apparently these were available, and for a discount, could be filled halfway or to the top dependent on the brewery. Perfect.

We grabbed a couple and set about sipping. Guided by Gregor. Our very own German beer sommelier. Beer, conversation and bladders all flowed. A fabulous afternoon and early evening.

The beer festival was free, the toilets €0.50 a squirt. Probably made more money than charging entrance fee. Talking of water – kind of – no free wet stuff is provided. According to Gregor quite common though slowly starting to change.

Mike and Gregor went onto a rock bar for a couple of hours. I politely declined. My limit had been reached and flying home the following day.

Home

Not much to say. Checked out our Hotel, wandered hindered by large suitcase before U2 Metro and airport.

OBSERVATIONS

Most high street shops a supermarkets are closed on Sundays. As are many bars, cafes and restaurants. Nevertheless, plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants are open, particularly in and around the train station.

Some stay closed on Monday.

Metro tickets are purchased from machines. No barriers, no checks, a singular lack of interest, in whether we paid or not. We did by the way. Hamburg was the same. Fines for non-payment occur so best to purchase viable ticket. You know, the one time you don’t……

More people smoke, less vape.

Public toilets are not free. Prices range from a pee inducing €1.50 to a more reasonable ‘let’s go again’ €0.50.

CONCLUSIONS

We’re unapologetic Europhiles. Brexit, an awful name for a worse idea. So it will come as no surprise we rather enjoyed our time in Germany.

Nuremberg has an incredibly laid back and relaxed vibe. More than many other large cities we’ve visited. As already remarked, this may be related to the rebuilding its medieval heart. Whatever, it proves a delightful spot to stroll, sip a coffee or relax with an ales or two. A long weekend should cover most of the basics.

You may decide to linger in Bamberg or, alternatively, visit from Nuremberg. You should do one. Bamberg is a gem, worthy of an overnight stay. And for any beer buff Bamberg is mecca. I’m toying with popping back at some future point. Lingering for a few days to better study and understand the cities’ beer culture.

Regensburg is another worthy destination. Nevertheless, if only one can be visited, it should be Bamberg.

Many thanks for reading, Tony (July 2025)