Arrival
Sus was working in Edinburgh for a couple of days so I, gallantly, offered to accompany her. I’m just that kind of guy.
Flight delayed, arrived into Edinburgh airport well after 10pm. Thankfully an efficient tram service into the city soothed annoyance.
Unfortunately, concert of someone I’d never heard of turning out at the time of my landing. Probably deliberate.
Tram jammed with predominantly teenage girls. With cowboy hats and tassels. Perfectly pleasant, if a thousand per square foot.
Hotel, Caught up with Susan, went to bed.
Roaming Free
Sus bringing home vegan bacon following day so roaming free for me. Princes Street beckoned. One side, gorgeous vistas of Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile’s derrière. The other, Edinburgh’s Oxford Street. Or London’s Princes Street.
Took a mild left onto Leith Walk. It’s quite a walk. Agreeable enough with, in the main, independent shops bars and restaurants. Came to South Leith, didn’t hang around. This was Leith before the gift of regeneration. Not horrendous, not great either.
Moved quickly through South Leith entering Old Leith, Edinburgh’s harbour district. The Shore, a street fronting Leith docks, houses architecture dating back to the 15th century. The 19th century harbour master buildings were especially gorgeous. Restaurants and bars entice locals and tourists alike. New flat developments entice estate agents.
Leith docks boasts a deep water harbour and still in use today. Redevelopment abounds with new flats, office and retail space.
The de-commissioned Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed here. And now open to the hoi polloi. For a cost.
Our hotel was nearby Haymarket and, to The Shore, took perhaps an hour and fifteen. One of Edinburgh’s efficient, clean and comfortable trams deposited me back there.
A brief hotel inspired respite before exploring the elegant, Georgian St Andrew’s Square and environs. The so called New Town’s origin story. Green in the middle hosting events such as the Fringe. Shops and restaurants are never too far away.
On discovering St Andrew’s Square I also discovered Rose Street. Designed as service road to the posh gaffs of the New Town’s in the latter half of the 18th century. Cheeky.
Traditional Scottish Pubs, independent eateries and boutiques dominate. Particularly the former. Additionally a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So getting pissed is culturally approved. Definitely merits a stroll even if afore mentioned culturally approved tippling lacks appeal.
Spent late afternoon and early evening, the latter with Sus, in the Wee Vault. A Vault City taproom. Twenty four taps, predominantly their own, predominantly modern sours. It’s their thing. One large fridge, and some shelving, showcase their own and guest beers.
Wee Vault is tiny. It’s not being ironic. No outdoor space either. Don’t arrive late expecting a seat. Enjoyed our time there and worth a visit if modern sours are your cup of sourness. Or to discover what all the fuss is about.
Royal Mile, Another Parliament, Arthur’s Seat
Was crowded, crammed, frustrating. Murder mile. The upper segment is mercifully pedestrianised, the lower segment is not. Edinburgh Castle, perched menacingly at the summit of the Royal Mile, is a truly magnificent beasty. Dating back to the 11th century with medieval embellishments (amongst others) the castle has jobbed as a royal residence, military garrison, prison and fortress. Retirement has seen it become a treasured tourist destination.
We spurned the opportunity to enter (visited before, long queue) though certainly not a reflection on the castle. If the occasion arises, do pop in.
Another historical treat lounges at the base of the royal Mile, the 16th century gothic Palace of Holyrood. Constructed in the grounds of the now ruined 11th century Holy Rood Abbey and renovated, by George V, in the 20th century. The Palace is both older and prettier than Buckingham Palace.
And spare a couple of glances for Abbey Strand, a small section around the Palace of Holyrood and leading up to the Palace gate. Renovated 16th century buildings dot the area.
Plus, the much maligned Scottish Parliament stands nearby. We both felt it was trying too hard, neither especially ugly or especially attractive.
And what about that bit inbetween the castle and Palace of Holyrood, the Royal Mile itself? It’s tourist nirvana predominately packed with tacky tourist shops, overpriced restaurants and underwhelming bars. The usual suspects. Exceptions exist including St Gile’s Cathedral about half way down. Nevertheless, resist temptation and peek above the shop fronts. You’ll be rewarded with a mischievous mixture or architecture classics from the gothic to Victorian. Renovations from all eras thrown in for free.
The Royal Mile is a beautifully elegant and handsome thoroughfare. Take a moment to enjoy.
The weather, somewhat to our surprise, went against form and remained clement. Warm but breezy. A short hike seemed to be in order. Arthur’s Seat (eh) sits within 640 acre Holyrood Park, a short stroll from Edinburgh’s Royal Mile.
Arthur’s Seat, is actually an ancient volcano sitting 251m above sea level. Not that we noticed. It’s also the site of a large hill fort dating back 2,000 thousand years. Nope, not that either. And one clambers over the remains of said fort to reach the absolute summit. And a site of Special Scientific Interest. Nope, passed us by too.
What we did notice was the steep scramble – 50 plus flights of stairs according to our all knowing iPhones. It’s a slog and would be deeply unpleasant in rain. And tricky, treacherous even. Particularly descending.
Panorama views across Edinburgh, the sea and surrounding landscape are spectacular.
Once descended from the ruined hill fort greenery welcomes picnickers. No facilities as such but a delightful site for a pork pie.
On the way up, over the cacophony of ragged breadth, we’d noticed a grass pathway presumably used for emergency vehicle access. We were later to spot a ranger’s Land Rover plodding resolutely upwards. Not wishing to scrabble back down the rock and scree pathway this seem ideal for those of more mature years. Still steep, though less so than the scree pathway. And considerably less people populated. Always a bonus.
The only downside? It meanders gracefully around Arthur’s Seat. If you’re in a rush, take your chances on the scree pathway. Otherwise you’ll fail to rush to whatever it is you’re rushing for.
Five to ten minutes from our hotel was the Hanging Bat. Sus again. Eighteen taps tempt, including a single cask.
Weirdly, on our visit, Northern Monk appeared to be showcasing. Plentiful seating indoors, pavement seating outside. Food available from a small menu. One fridge and behind the bar provide takeouts. At a 15% discount from memory.
An agreeable and chilled evening.
Grassmarket, Victoria Street, Rain
Grassmarket, located in old town, sits directly below Edinburgh Castle.
Once a market place, once a hanging place, once a cattle market place. Now, with architecture ranging from 17th century tenements to 21st century offices, Grassmarket is a delightful square crammed with pubs and restaurants.
We bench perched, sipped coffees, munched coronary cookies whilst watched Edinburgh wander by.
Victoria Street, constructed between 1829 and 1834, is one of the most photographed and iconic of all Edinburgh thoroughfares. Stretching upwards from Grassmarket, colourful shop store fronts are overlooked by darker, larger Victoriana. Picturesque indeed.
A return to Rose Street – Sus had yet to peruse – before a spot of lunch. Then rain. No complaints, the weather, to date, had been tourist friendly. The forecasts, before our visit, had been somewhat less optimistic.
Sus returned to the hotel, I returned to Hanging Bat.
Trip Advisor, Museum, Home
Our last day. Flying back to London late afternoon.
Before foddering we nipped into the National Museum of Scotland. It’s free – apart from certain exhibitions – hosting an eclectic and fascinating collection. The Victorian central atrium is an architectural jewel.
Makars Mash Bar (https://makarsmash.com/) is one of the most highly rated eateries – anywhere in the world – on Trip Advisor. Not necessarily an endorsement. Nevertheless, an Edinburgh establishment. Prepare to queue, prepare for a waiting list.
We’d tried to eat at Makers the previous day but times offered didn’t suit. Today they did. This is not gourmet fodder, this is Scottish comfort food. And surprisingly expensive. Nevertheless, both thoroughly enjoyed our haggis (Sus’s was vegan). Definitely merits a queue.
Hotel, airport, London.
Summary
Tourists herds dominate Edinburgh. With the exception of London I can’t recall a UK city with such a tourist invasion. Americans in particular. Europeans not far behind. A few to unearth their inner highlander. Tartan purveyors were suspiciously common in tourist hot spots.
Edinburgh would be an easy city to live in – large enough to provide all those must have amenities, small enough to not be overwhelming. Not necessarily for us – London still rules our hearts – but if you did end up posted here, it certainly wouldn’t be a hardship.
Edinburgh is a worthy Capital. It’s beautiful, elegant and fascinating. Easily walkable with friendly natives. Try it out.
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